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Done it several times on my own vehicle and others (I find its a straightforward and easy job)
Just drain it out of the drain point if you have one and then refill dont forget to take filler cap off to allow air into system
You wonít drain complete system this way but you will get a lot of the old fluid out then refill with new mix or flush it out with fresh water before new solution I just let gravity and use all the bleed values do it , then with everything closed run pump for a while then shut it off and re bleed at every point
Will just cost you a couple of litres of COMMA XSTREAM G40 And if you want to be thorough distilled water (Halfords sell both )
Remember there is a one way valve just outside the boiler in same pipe as the brass auto air extractor should you be trying to blow the fluid out
|erneboy||It can be done without a pump, but it's a bugger.|
|sheds||I have googled extensively and been in touch with Alde who want to take 275 from me (plus a lot of diesel to get there) to change the fluid and bleed etc. They won't rent me their special pump as this service is only for Alde agents. Found a guy on youtube who had done the job with a submersible pump form Ebay and a few old plumbing bits to allow him to connect tubing to the pump and into the system at the header tank end. I reckon on being able to do the job for £100 or less and a half to one day day of time because its a bit fiddly|
Originally Posted by sheds View Post
( important to retain this corrosion resistance in ALDE aluminium boilers )
Blue change every 2 years
Pink every 5 years
|erneboy||They may have fitted more bleeders since ours was made. God knows it needed them. I'd bought more intending to fit them next time I had to bleed it but then we changed the van.|
I have never bled the air out with the pump running - I just let gravity do it
Neither have i ever had problems bleeding system as there are bleed values at every high point
If you donít have these or donít see them all then yes you would have problems bleeding system
Have a look here: https://forums.motorhomefacts.com/14...roblems-3.html
I know I wrote a full explanation but I can't find it now.
Some help here too.
One thing to note is if you do run the heating to get the stuff moving you'll need to try and judge it so that it doesn't shut itself off due to overheating. It may reset a limited number of times and then lock you out. Maybe see what technical info you can find.
Though both Alde and Eberspacher make circulated hot water systems the piping and radiators are very similar so advice on bleeding is pretty much interchangeable.
Follow the tubing you'll see the bleeders. It's easiest to do with the pump running so you'll need the heater on. In theory it should gravity bleed, but I never got it to do it. Too many high points in the pipes I concluded.
I've posted on this in detail before. Will see if I can find it. I'd top up with water to bleed then. The problem with antifreeze is that the pump can froth it up making the pipes more or less full but not of a properly conductive liquid. Once it's bled it's not hard to run some of the now dilute coolant out and replace it with antifreeze redressing the balance.
|sheds||Hmmm, used to get my Frankia habitation checked and serviced every year and I assume they bled/topped up the circulating liquid heating. I'm starting to think about getting the van ready for its long trek to S.E Europe. Do you have any info on how to bleed the system?|
|erneboy||Yes, when we changed to our current van it was back to blown hot air. I did prefer the other, but I had to dismantle it a couple of times to fix faults and bleeding it afterwards was a right bugger of a job.|
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