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Autosleeper leak

24K views 21 replies 14 participants last post by  jiwawa 
#1 ·
Hi all,

Not too sure why I'm posting this as it looks like a job for a pro but...

has anyone any experience of a leak on Autosleeper symphony (or harmony/symbol) above the windscreen? (Ours is a 1995 M plate - in good condition apart from this - it's upsetting!)

I have re-sealed along the 'join' between the screen and GRP hi-top with a flexible silicone but it still seems damp inside - I think the water is getting in under the 4inch black plastic trim that runs right round the van - unfortunately Autosleeper seem to have glued this on?

Any thoughts (no matter how trivial) greatly appreciated.

I'm not an active poster but read the forum most days and it's a great community - thanks to all for the advice and tips posted here.

Lev

PS - has anyone replaced their curtains in a van of this age? Can it be done reasonably cheaply?
 
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#2 ·
Hi Lev

Autosleepers themselves are usually very helpful with free advice to owners, it might be worth phoning them for a chat, there will be people there who know all about the problems encountered with pretty well every model over the years and they will certainly know how yours is constructed. Alternatively an e mail exchange may be more effective if phone lines are busy. Why not google their contact details and give it a try?

Not much help but it will bump your post into Saturday morning!!

Good luck!
 
#6 ·
Hi,
I seem to remember that you can get condensation on the front wall of the front top locker due to a lack of insulation between it and the outer skin, but I've never noticed this myself, phoning Autosleepers service would be my advice,
Chris.
p.s. if you flick the cab interior light out of its hole you can see inside and check for water.
 
#7 ·
Hi Lev


I am on my third A/S (Trident, Duetto, and Exec) and have had only had two leaks to deal with, and both of those were roof vents which were easily fixed.


I would do as someone suggested, have a look down through the cab light space, perhaps with a strong light and a small inspection mirror. I gained access to the front roof space (to fit a new aerial) by removing the front Labcraft light.


I would phone A/S as I believe they are not too good at answering E Mail.

I hope you can fix it soon. Cheers Andy
 
#8 ·
Is it parked sloping downwards at all. Could it be coming on a horizontal slant from somewhere else inside the hi-top? Mine when parked sloping backwards leaked all the way down through the inner kitchen window baize - but it was coming from the tiny top windows. They have channels to duct out the rain that were bunged up with muck.

- Have decided that water is very weird stuff.

My curtains could do with changing, but the biggest gripe is the stupid 'hook on' curtain hooks that the loops fall off. Think mine are called zylon or some such. Site on web does new hooks that are a proper loop. www.fittingservices.com Taking off the fascias with electric controls on are the only drawback I can see to getting curtains copied from originals - by self or curtain co. Curtain site - www.campercomforts.co.uk

Do you have back door draft? I am going to make a longer curtain to the floor in heavier fabric to see if I can do it myself!

Mine is Harmony 1995 I have bought and replaced the press studs on some curtains and their studs on the van as they were a bit rusty looking. Also might make the detachable curtain between bed/cab or bed/kitchen discussed on here.

I have got 2 mystery square metal 1" brackets up at top side of wardrobe, same on other side of van. Think they might be for top bed net or privacy curtain. Have you got them too?

Good luck with the H2O - Helena.
 
#9 ·
Lev
Can't help about the leak and I hope you get it sorted very soon!

However I just made new curtains for my mh after Christmas. Easy as anything, I even lined them...now that was a first. I think it cost me approximately £30 and that included a lined privacy curtain in the back as well.

So easy to do, simply measure the old ones and cut the new ones same size allowing about 1/2" seam allowance on all sides. All it is sewing 4 straight sides.

You don't need to line them if you buy heavy enough material but I bought inexpensive cotton so wanted to line them so they hung better and offered a bit more insulation.

Good luck.
 
#10 ·
Hi Helena,



I have just been attending the curtains in my Exec, and I agree with you they are not easy to remove and install, but I had to do it twice :oops: :oops: .


At the end of last summer I took them down and gave them wash, then struggled like blazes to rehang them, got them back up and realised I had them on the wrong sides(they all looked alike!!) So last week when I was bored, and looking for something to do, I decided to sort them out.


Anyway the front rails just unclip and drop down making it easy to undo the stopping screw, the curtains then just slides off. The side ones I had to undo the middle screw holding the rail to the frame by gently easing the end of the rail downwards (rather than trying to screw it) then gently eased the rail in a downward angle allowing you a better angle for access to the start of the rail for the very miniscule hangers.


For a cheap and easy way to close off the Cab from the habitation area , I bought a Shower rail and curtain(180 x 180) from Wilkinsons, and cut the rail to length, fixed two cup hooks on the bulkhead and clipped it on. This can be removed very easily when not required.

Cheers Andy
 
#11 ·
Thanks for all the replies ladies and gents!

Helena - We get the leak above the driver side windscreen when the van is parked 'facing upwards' so it must be close to the damp area - I'm pretty certain there must be a hole or broken seal under the grey 'gutter' that goes around the van.

We have a good local bodywork repair man but he thinks there is a risk that the bonded gutter may break if removed - I've emailed AS for a price for a replacement so we can take a view.

It's our first van (had it 12 months now) and we're totally hooked so I want to make sure this is sorted properly.

Very impressed with the level of DIY you bods carry out on here. I wouldn't know where to start with making curtains (hmmm...Mrs Lev on the other hand..?) and I'm too scared to drill into/modify anything in case it goes wrong!

No brackets on our van near the wardrobe - I reckon you may be correct about privacy curtain though.

Will keep you all posted on developments but thanks again for your help
Lev
 
#12 ·
autosleeper leak

My Father had a 1996 Symphony from six months old and he had the leak you describe. It didn't start until about 5 years old and the screws at the end of the large grey trim above the screen was the cause. He applied silicone sealer into the trim screw holes and put in new screws and then put sealer over the screws and refitted the caps.
 
#13 ·
Hi Poleman

Thanks for the tip - It would be really good if that is the problem as shouldn't be too bad to fix. Will take a good look this weekend.

Early indications from A/S are a replacement black gutter/trim would be approx £200+VAT, assuming that their fibreglass supplier still has the mould. so I'm hpoing that won't have to come off!

Fingers crossed and thanks again.
Lev
 
#15 ·
Hi all,

As an epilogue to the leak issue...

We took the van to local bodywork repairer (Martin Brooks at Upton, Worcestershire). He managed to cut through the plastic gutter and found a hole underneath. Long story short - it's been filled, re-sealed and repainted and you would never know the difference.

Only real point to make (and no scare-mongering intended - this could well be isolated to our van) is that the gutter/fibreglass hitop method of attachment seemed to make the leak inevitable as far as I can tell. The drain holes were at a level which meant that there was often 1/4" of water against the van bodywork. This, coupled with the fact that there was an untreated wooden block used to attach screw fixings which just soaked up water, seemed to accelerate the rust in one area.

As I said, probably isolated to our van, but perhaps keep an eye on the drain holes in your gutter trims and make sure they don't get clogged up.

Anyway, van fixed so I'm happy now.
Thanks to all that posted on this thread.
Lev.
 
#16 ·
There is a known remedy for the Executives Curtains, I cant remember the make/model of the replacement runners but if you are in ASOC there is a mods sheet with the details that you can get from the club.

When our exec side window leaked AS said the quickest way to get the side curtains out was from the outside ! dont know myself got them to do it !!!
 
#18 ·
Hi Lev, I have just bought a 2000 Peugeot Autosleeper Symbol and it looks like there is a damp issue on the passenger side above the door, again where the black trim is that was not disclosed by the dealer. I was wondering how much it cost to repair as that may determine whether I keep the van or return it. The problem may have been made worse by an awning that's been fitted as I can feel the insulation between the panels is damp.
 
#20 ·
Leaking windscreen on autosleeper Symphony

Yup - mine is leaking - quite badly at times - started last year. I have been told that Autosleeper don't treat the metal when they cut the tops off to fit fibreglass roof. Common fault apparently. I have been told that windscreen needs to come out, rust repaired and then windscreen back in and sealed - have been quoted about £2000 on average to get it fixed. Unfortunately, I don't have that kind of money! I would be grateful if others have fixed the problem.
 
#21 ·
Sikaflex 522 is used in the marine industry.I also think it is used in the automotive industry to bond windscreens to cars.It also used to bond every window I have fitted to my campervan and I used it to seal around the Maxfan which I installed in the roof of my camper.Once applied water cannot get thru.
Once you can trace where the leak is that stuff will seal it for sure.Hope you get it sorted
 
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