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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 28-03-2020, 16:27 Thread Starter
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Changing Alde heating fluid - bleed screws

Since it now looks like the annual summer trip to Greece is off for 2020 and I am in lockdown like so many others, I decided to do some overdue and otherwise expensive jobs on my Frankia i840BD vintage 2007. The first job I had ready to go was to change my Alde fluid and to this end I sourced a 12v submersible pump, vast quantities of the purple 5yr fluid and today got started by jacking the van onto stands to defeat my sloping drive way. I found the drain point in my locker adjacent to the entry door. I clamped the hose, removed the brass plug and released the fluid. First of all the liquid was much thicker than I had expected (and way thicker than the new G13 liquid) and smelt a bit musty.

Now I'm guessing the fluid was never changed in my warranty services so the fluid was possibly 13 yrs old so probably picked up some contamination. Anyway, the quantity I drained off seemed way too little, so I decided to loosen all the bleed screws to see if the "radiators" would release more when air was introduced. However, I am not sure I have located all the bleed points. The ones I know about are:

1. Under the lounge seats one on each side
2. The 3rd under the sink in the toilet
3. The 4th in the garage

Does anyone know if there are any hidden bleed points I need to locate in addition to the 4 I have found?

Thanks in advance
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 28-03-2020, 16:51
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Our heating was Eberspacher hot water in an I840BD. It had a bleeder near the hot tank and another at the heater.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 28-03-2020, 22:35
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There are bleed nipples at each radiator, so wherever you have a source of heat when in use you'll find a bleed nipple, pretty sure there will be one at front of dash at bottom of windscreen.

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 28-03-2020, 23:12
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Mines obviously a different van but it's the concealed radiators that are the ones that might get missed. The bleed nipples in my van in the attached.
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File Type: jpg Bleed points.JPG (32.2 KB, 17 views)

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 29-03-2020, 12:16 Thread Starter
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Thanks Peribro - I had a good hunt and the windscreen heating is blown air with ducting and no radiators. I also checked behind the cutlery drawer. Warm air usually can be felt coming out of the gap behind the cooker and sink which is covered by a perforated ally cover, but there is no easy way to access it without panel/cupboard dismantling. The rear bed is a lifting model so there are no radiators around the frame which would foul the bed as it rises and falls, however there is a large radiator in the garage (with a bleed screw). So I think I have found all the bleed points. Given the lockdown, I shall fire off an email to SMS as Frankia no longer seem to want to communicate with end users.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 29-03-2020, 14:57
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To be fair to Frankia, I mailed them a couple of days ago via their website - I got a near instant automated response, followed by a human generated response the following morning. That was in response to a query I had about my water ingress warranty as I am unable to keep to the specified inspection timetable. The response was very positive.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 29-03-2020, 17:56
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The normal method of changing the fluid is to pump the new fluid in at the header tank* and the old fluid will be pushed out at the drain point.

* Do not pump into the tank itself, connect the feed in to the pipework below the tank.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-04-2020, 14:17 Thread Starter
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I watched a youtube video which was pretty comprehensive. I am now waiting for a few jubilee clips to arrive through my letterbox so I can attach the pump into the pipe work. In the video he pumped (to flush initially) deionized water into the inlet pipe and drew off the wash-through from the outlt at the header tank rather than the drain point. Cant wait to get started!
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-04-2020, 14:19 Thread Starter
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And found another one in the boiler hatch attached to the rad behind the cooker, so I think I've found them all now!
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-04-2020, 13:28
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There is a one way valve in the pipeline by the boiler which also holds the brass auto air vent so pump it in the right direction

Just a thought not tried it myself

You could use the system pump ( as long as its not in the header tank) and the header tank

Identify the flow into the header tank by looking inside while pump running (i think its the connection with the deeper well )

Remove all fluid from header tank then disconnect the return pipe from the header tank and connect some temporary pipework to it to extend it to some large container to collect the old fluid

Blank off the now open connection on header tank and fill with new fresh fluid

with an assistant one of you keeps header tank topped up and the other turning the pump on ( and off if problems occur or when system flushed through )
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