Where do Hymer hide the fuses - Page 4 - Motorhome Forums, Motorhome Discussion, Motorhome Chat

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post #31 of 38 (permalink) Old 10-10-2013, 20:02
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HI.

Try turning the power off to the electro block at the control above the door?, or where ever you turn off the twelve volt, also unplug the EHU so everything electrical apart from the engine and cab side are dead then wait quarter of an hour then switch it all back in again.

Ray

Just watching a shifty looking geezer in the library searching intently through the 'S' section of the dictionary, he's stopped now.

I think he's up to something. . .. . . ray......
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post #32 of 38 (permalink) Old 10-10-2013, 20:11
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Ray,
Have you replied to the original 3-year old post?

Roger
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post #33 of 38 (permalink) Old 10-10-2013, 20:19
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Originally Posted by prof20
Ray,
Have you replied to the original 3-year old post?

Roger
HI.

Some folk may have the same problem and a search Will bring up my answer which does work, it 're sets the electroblock which often cures spurious electrical problems.

When the post was made is irrelevant.

Ray.

Just watching a shifty looking geezer in the library searching intently through the 'S' section of the dictionary, he's stopped now.

I think he's up to something. . .. . . ray......
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post #34 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-10-2013, 17:24
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[quote="strewth101"]Ah. The glove compartment. Obvious when you know it. Thanks for that. The fuse seems is fine therefore I'm guessing it's the pump that's the problem.

I'm not just new to this forum... it's the first time I ever posted on anything. Hence, I couldn't find the "new thread" button. This thread was closest.

Strewth, I have a 2001 584 and the plastic connector box that controls the squirters is most likely corroded inside. Follow the wires back from the reservoir and pull the clip apart. Clean the connectors (you can use a drop of vinegar) and replace. Now try them; if they still don't work get someone to operate the squirters whilst you gently manipulate the wires. Hopefully you will get a better connection and they will work.

All the connectors are a real pain as they seem to corrode and I have had to clean and 'manipulate' the wipers, squirters, side lights, temperature sensors and horn. The fuel gauge has also suffered from a poor connector. German engineering meets Italian electrics

Best of luck

Terry
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post #35 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-10-2013, 17:37
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Thanks for the suggestions fellas. I appreciate it.

Turns out Terry was closest. It was the connectors. Bit of a clean and I could squirt to my heart's content. Just as well as my windscreen looked like an insect graveyard. javascript:emoticon('')

Thanks again. Paul
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post #36 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-10-2013, 21:50
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Good news Paul...happy squirting!

Terry
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post #37 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-09-2016, 22:43
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Hi there and thanks for your document regarding fuses and their whereabouts on Hymer's.
We have a 1983 Mercedes Hymer Motorhome and the horn/hooter is not working, she needs to go through MOT and would not pass without the horn/hooter so we are desperate to find where the fuse is located so that we may replace the fuse.
Many thanks
liz
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post #38 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-09-2016, 23:33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eliz9031163 View Post
Hi there and thanks for your document regarding fuses and their whereabouts on Hymer's.
We have a 1983 Mercedes Hymer Motorhome and the horn/hooter is not working, she needs to go through MOT and would not pass without the horn/hooter so we are desperate to find where the fuse is located so that we may replace the fuse.
Many thanks
liz

The majority of this thread is talking about an electrical problem on the habitation side of the electrics. The horn will almost certainly be run off the engine battery and the fuse will be one of the original base vehicle fuses. The vehicle fuses may be found in the glove compartment (but I can't guarantee that).

Have you been able to use a meter to prove whether or not the horn itself is at fault. If a horn has not been used for sometime then the contacts can sometimes become corroded. One way of dealing with this can be to get someone to press the horn button and to give the horn a sharp tap with the handle of a hammer or similar. (Checking the supply with a meter first would be the best approach though )

Phil
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