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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-09-2020, 12:38 Thread Starter
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Annoying 20 minute shut down of radio

I have at last, reached the limit of my patience with our motorhome radio....

I want to upgrade it to something with Bluetooth, aux input and such - none of which are on our current radio (the original).

I also want to stop the annoying 20 minute shut down after the ignition is switched off, but not by simply cutting the blue and yellow wire and joining the red permanent feed as there are numerous reports of problems with that.

The suggestion from a very old edition of Practical Motorhome is as follows;

THIS METHOD SHOULD NOT BE USED ON THE LATEST VERSION OF THE BOXER OR DUCATO

To simply eliminate the 20 minute cutoff but retain the ignition on switching feed is quite simple. You need a couple of feet of twin core wire (speaker wire is ideal as the current carried is very low) a diode and a switch. mount the switch in a convenient place and connect one of each of the two cores to either side of the switch. Remove the radio and with a multi meter or test lamp establish which wires are the permanent live and ignition switched feeds.

On Fiats the permanent live should be the thick red wire, the ignition switched feed is a thin yellow/blue wire. Once you have established the ignition switched feed cut it through about 50 mm from the socket and insert the diode into it (check it's the right way round by switching the ignition on, if the radio comes on then it's the right way round, if not reverse the diode).

Connect one of the two cores from your new switch to the permanent live and the other to the radio side of the diode. Now your radio will still switch on and off with the ignition but by operating the switch you can have it on for as long as you like without the ignition on.

To power your radio from the leisure battery run a new wire from your leisure battery (with a 10 Amp fuse as near to the battery as is possible) and cut the red from the original feed (again about 50mm from the socket). Connect the new wire to the red tail to the radio socket.

DO NOT USE INSULATION DISPLACEMENT CONNECTORS (SCOTCHLOCKS) FOR ANY OF THE CONNECTIONS. EITHER SOLDER AND INSULATE OR USE PROPER CRIMP TERMINALS AND CONNECTORS.

Parts needed (all from Maplins)
Diode Maplins Part number N72CA
Bell cable length to suite wher you are fitting the extra switch
Switch Maplins Part number NOOAR
10amp power wire and in line fuse for the leisure battery wiring (from local Car Accesories shop)

Thanks to Dave Newell for publishing the article in Practical Motorhome Magazine


But, of course, Maplins no longer exist, or if they do they don't sell components with that number (the diode), and I am out of my comfort zone knowing the characteristics needed for such a diode....

So, can anyone give me advice as to what size/quality/type of diode I need to find, and, any links for such a supplier would be gratefully received.

Thanks in anticipation.

Any typo that I make means the errorists win.

Any comments above are only MY OPINION and should be read as that.

http://www.leslezards.co.uk
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-09-2020, 14:50
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hi penguin

basically any common garden diode that is over 12v but 50v would be better



basically a diode is just like a 1 way valve and in this case, the diode is there to stop the live feed putting power back into the ignition switch

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-PACK-10...QAAOSwAata07Hf


let me know if you are going ahead as i have an idea for the second diode that might be better just in case you leave the switch on and switch the ignition on

by putting the second diode in the permanent feed as well it would stop the ignition connecting to the permanent feed giving power to it if the permanent feed fuse had blown


barry
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-09-2020, 15:13 Thread Starter
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Thanks pp, that is a super idea and I will be tackling it after our break I think

I have an old iPod that I use and in the car (a Qashqai) it connects via a USB which works well, I use a Bluetooth adaptor on it for headphones when cutting the grass so either of those two will work, but of course the current radio has neither option. So at present I am using, and cursing, a FM adaptor, that grinding an unused frequency while driving is like finding hen's teeth here in France where virtually every frequency is swamped by French broadcasts......

So, my thought is to replace the radio, at last, and make it so we can listen in the evenings when perhaps we are under too many trees for the satellite dish yo find the BBC.

Hence my wish for info.

Any typo that I make means the errorists win.

Any comments above are only MY OPINION and should be read as that.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-09-2020, 09:05 Thread Starter
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Have now had confirmed from www.connects2.com that the block on the back of the Kontiki radio is an ISO Block so a replacement radio should plug straight in with only the modifications that I want to make about the annoying 20 minute shut down.

There needs to be a switch as otherwise the display stays on and that would flatten the battery, at present, it is of course, running off the vehicle battery, so, if the alternative feed comes from the leisure battery Bank it wil be switched off when the 12v supply is switched off, leaving the permanent feed working as at present to keep the codes and that circuit will be diode protected too.

That's the plan, anyway.

www.connects2.com are a very useful company that will supply alternative leads for connecting all sorts of things - very helpful, I got the name from Fun.

Any typo that I make means the errorists win.

Any comments above are only MY OPINION and should be read as that.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 30-12-2020, 10:43 Thread Starter
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OK next stupid question....

I have now bought a replacement radio so I can upgrade and playback via USB and am just awaiting advice about connections.

Others MAY have already replaced their head unit and may be able to help.....

Is the annoying cut off after 20 minutes based in the radio or the vehicle?

I have read various reports that it is initiated from the radio itself and on some units can be adjusted or removed by applying a change in the settings.... my question is therefore

Has anyone replaced the head unit and found that the cut off has gone (i.e. Radio based) or it has remained (vehicle processor based)?

Any suggestions ?

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 30-12-2020, 11:50
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I should imagine that it is in the radio itself Dave. An AND gate (red and yellow feeds) with a triggered timer, otherwise you wouldn't be able to overide it for a further 20mins just from the radio.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 30-12-2020, 17:05
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This any good Dave: https://www.fiatforum.com/ducato/124...20-mins-2.html

Brexiters. It's your sh1t now. Whatever happens nationally and internationally you own it. I wish you luck. I think you're going to need all you can get and then some. Friday 13th December 2019.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 30-12-2020, 17:19 Thread Starter
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Thanks Alan,

You will note that I was actually on that thread from when I was able to post, but even my lengthy answer - which is reproduced at the start of this answer, does not address the question as to whether it is Radio or vehicle processor initiated, it looks like those that have commented have not actually changed their radio - that is what I am trying to do...

Another "slight technical hitch" is that the existing radio has four sets of speaker wires in an ISO unit, the Pioneer has three separate outlets with phono plugs.... connect2 says to connect via ISO unit supplied by Pioneer and all will be well....

They say that the three outlets are for a separate amplifier, which I don't think I have (unless Swift excelled themselves, which I very much doubt). 🙄

Only time (and skinned knuckles) will tell....

It beats discussing Brexit and CoVid anyway....

Thanks to all, I will press on and try.......

Any typo that I make means the errorists win.

Any comments above are only MY OPINION and should be read as that.

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 30-12-2020, 17:24
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Ah, yes I see. I didn't go back to the start of the thread because I had read it when it was posted, but I didn't remember the detail of what had been covered.

From reading the Fait Forum posts I'd have thought changing the connections and adding a switch would do the job and it won't hurt to try that.
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Brexiters. It's your sh1t now. Whatever happens nationally and internationally you own it. I wish you luck. I think you're going to need all you can get and then some. Friday 13th December 2019.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 16-01-2021, 17:21 Thread Starter
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For anyone interested, the 20 minute delay on shutdown IS radio based, not vehicle based, it is obviously a design feature of that radio.

I have now fitted the Pioneer unit and it sounds superb, but it goes off as soon as the ignition is switched off, so I will now insert the diodes into the circuits as explained in the OP to allow it to be switched on by a separate switch with the second diode to protect the permanent live fuse.

As regards the difference in speaker connections, Pioneer supplied a double ended to single ended ISO unit, I was able to use that with just one modification, suggested by Pioneer in the Manual - swappind the Permant and Ignition Switched Lives exactly as per a diagram and with connectors already installed in the supplied ISO harness, that makes access for inserting diodes easier too...... The speakers connect into one of the ISO units and the power directly into the other. Surprisingly easy..... and it works !

All good fun and it saves sitting listening yo more and more reports about the severity of CoVid, or the failures of HMG or Brexit or yet more "Escape to the Country under the Hammer" type programmes.

Any typo that I make means the errorists win.

Any comments above are only MY OPINION and should be read as that.

http://www.leslezards.co.uk

Last edited by Penquin; 16-01-2021 at 17:27.
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