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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-10-2018, 13:22
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Boring holes, no matter how well sealed, through the shower side wall doesn't exactly seem a very bright idea. If that really is the only way to do it, might it be an idea to utilise the holes to affix perhaps a chrome soap dish, sponge rack or something to hold your rubber duck in, which firstly may be practical, and secondly to hide some other rather ugly crews/bolts/fixing or whatever?


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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-10-2018, 13:39 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tugboat View Post
If, as it sounds, Autotrail are suggesting a spreader board inside the shower itself, that is a very inelegant solution and I think they should be ashamed.

My opinion is that they should have pre-installed a through-bolted fitting that an owner could have used to attach the TV bracket of their choice.

I realise not everyone wants a telly, but the fitting could have been colour coded to the bulkhead so as to not be unduly obtrusive.

If Autotrail suggest a spreader board mounted on the outside of the bulkhead, again a concealed spreader between the bulkhead and the shower liner would have been better.
Not affixed to the inside of shower. Mounted spreader board to the wall surface in lounge same face as blue square on previous picture.
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-10-2018, 18:14
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Not affixed to the inside of shower. Mounted spreader board to the wall surface in lounge same face as blue square on previous picture.
Maybe I am being a tad thick but if that is the Autotrail suggestion it rather misses the point...

the advantage of using any form of spreader board is that it is on the OPPOSITE side of the thin partition so that any forces are spread over a much wider area of the thin partition board.

What they seem to be suggesting is that the spreader board is on the SAME SIDE as the TV i.e. the extra load that needs to be supported.

If that is the case then the load may be slightly spread but much less than if the board was on the other side - are they suggesting that it should be stuck in place? If so that will help a little but it will still fail long before than if it was on the other side.......

As I said maybe I am being a tad thick but I would be very careful adopting that system - perhaps to the extent of using collapsing anchor type fittings if there is sufficient space between the partition wall and the shower wall - and I would use the VERY short rubber Rawlplug type ones which will help to spread the load over a wider area.

https://www.rawlplug.co.uk/products/...ug-with-screw/

Thinking of; Mavis, Ray, Sandra and Albert at this time.

Any comments above are only MY OPINION and should be read as that.

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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-10-2018, 18:57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Penquin View Post
Maybe I am being a tad thick but if that is the Autotrail suggestion it rather misses the point...

the advantage of using any form of spreader board is that it is on the OPPOSITE side of the thin partition so that any forces are spread over a much wider area of the thin partition board.

What they seem to be suggesting is that the spreader board is on the SAME SIDE as the TV i.e. the extra load that needs to be supported.

If that is the case then the load may be slightly spread but much less than if the board was on the other side - are they suggesting that it should be stuck in place? If so that will help a little but it will still fail long before than if it was on the other side.......

As I said maybe I am being a tad thick but I would be very careful adopting that system - perhaps to the extent of using collapsing anchor type fittings if there is sufficient space between the partition wall and the shower wall - and I would use the VERY short rubber Rawlplug type ones which will help to spread the load over a wider area.

https://www.rawlplug.co.uk/products/...ug-with-screw/
I agree. A spreader board on the outside still just relies on screw threads holding into mdf. If glue is used, it becomes a permanent fixture with no option of removal. Plus it would be glued onto laminate rather than a solid timer bulkhead.

With no offense meant to the OP, I still think Autotrail should have a better solution.
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-10-2018, 20:21
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A board stuck on the outside to take any fixings is the correct way of doing it, the board is called a "Patras" and is a standard way of fixing that is the norm for building to take anything that the original structure would not hold, like a coat peg rail on a stud wall where the studs can not be fixed on, or a toilet roll holder in the same situation..

Once the Patras is fixed on with maybe Sikaflex mastic or similar it will be fine, and any TV brackets should be screwed in place to hold the TV...

ray.

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I think he's up to something. . .. . . ray......
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-10-2018, 23:36
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I would still be nervous about this option because my guess this wall is hollow. With the weight of a TV bouncing around on bumpy roads the forces
put on the lower edge of the bracket could still embed itself onto the panel if hollow at that point.

I am not a great lover of fixing anything like this to a wall where it can not be removed and show no damage .

If it was mine I would and have mounted my tv in locker and it swings out at a perfect viewing angle and quickly locks away nice and tidy and well supported.
But if I wanted it in that position. i would not put holes in the wall halfway up.
I can not see if your overhead locker door is up against shower wall,hoping it in not I would get a price of cream 18mm board just wider than the bracket from ceiling to seat base. I would route out a square on back to take a thin steel plate and use coach bolts with enclosed black nuts on front to mount bracket, Then I would route a channel for cables in back from bottom and bring wires up in this channel and out hole behind TV
Finally the last bit is to fix it with screws at top and bottom . Try find secure fixing points .

Nice and tidy and if you ever want it removed bottom screw holes hidden by cushion and top ones can be capped and not very noticeable high up.

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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-10-2018, 10:15 Thread Starter
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Thanks again everyone for input and suggestions. I'm going to be mounting a board - patras as Rayrecrok describes. Will be using sikaflex and screws to secure to wall before adding TV mount. TV will be removed for travelling as it's a vision plus mount with removable vesa plate. 24hrs for sikaflex to go off should be long enough before adding mount. Please advise if longer is required.
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