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post #1 of 174 (permalink) Old 23-03-2021, 15:08 Thread Starter
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Hank the Tank is in trouble!

Posted this on the wildies yesterday but meant to post it on here and forgot.

Took the van in for MOT yesterday morning and its not good news. Its only done 400 miles from the last one. It makes pretty grim reading. The list is too long to screen shot.

1996 Swift Kontiki 640. im guessing this is not going to be a small bill. Should we start a sweepstake as to who can guess how much to the nearest million?

Current guesses on the Wildies is anything from £1000-£2500. If its economically repairable at all). I guess it will depend how bad it all is.


Repair immediately (major defects):
Offside Front Integral body structure or chassis has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of a body mounting Jacking point (6.2.2 (d) (i))
Nearside Front Inner Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength Wheel arch (5.3.6 (a) (i))
Nearside Rear Brake pipe excessively corroded front to rear at rear (1.1.11 (c))
Offside Front Inner Brake prescribed area is excessively corroded Wheel arch (1.1.21 (e) (i))
Nearside Front Seat belt anchorage prescribed area strength or continuity significantly reduced Step (7.1.1 (a) (i))
Nearside Rear Position lamp showing white light to the rear (4.2.3 (a) (ii))
Rear fog lamp not working (4.5.1 (a) (ii))
Headlamp levelling device inoperative (4.1.5 (a))
Battery insecure and likely to fall from carrier (4.13 (a) (ii))
Offside Front Lower Suspension arm ball joint dust cover no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (5.3.4 (b) (ii))
Rear Brakes imbalanced across an axle (1.2.1 (b) (i))
Offside Front Service brake excessively binding (1.2.1 (f))
Offside Rear Service brake excessively binding (1.2.1 (f))
Rear Brakes imbalanced across an axle Axle 2 (1.2.1 (b) (i))
Repair as soon as possible (minor defects):
Nearside Registration plate lamp inoperative in the case of multiple lamps or light sources (4.7.1 (b) (i))
Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):
Front Anti-roll bar pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement Both (5.3.4 (a) (i))
Rear Integral body structure is corroded but structural rigidity is not significantly reduced both inner wheel arches (6.1.1 (c) (i))


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post #2 of 174 (permalink) Old 23-03-2021, 15:23
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It is worth repairing but to keep it economical you will want what perhaps is best described as an old fashioned mechanic to do the body repairs. Someone who used to work on old Transits and that sort of thing. They perpetually rotted and had lumps of tin welded on to repair them. It's not so hard to do for someone who's experienced in it. Replacing chassis parts isn't usually necessary, might be very costly and is probably what any big garage would want to do. They tend to be fitters rather than repairers.

The brakes will need a similarly experienced mechanic (repairer rather then fitter) and will probably work well enough if stripped and rebuilt with any defective parts replaced.

The lights etc. should be easy enough.

Ask your mechanic if patching and welding is his thing, if not ask around or ask him if he knows anyone.

You'd be doing well to get away at £1,000, but it seems quite possible so long as you don't go to a big garage.

That's the kind of list I sometimes used to get on my old Transit and Escort vans when I was starting my business and had so little money that I had to run a fleet of elderly vehicles. I spent evenings and weekends doing that sort of mechanicing. Never sent any work out as I couldn't afford to.

It's better to avoid those lists by checking a vehicle over. Once they start writing a big list they take it almost as a challenge to find as much as possible, I have found.
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Last edited by erneboy; 23-03-2021 at 15:29.
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post #3 of 174 (permalink) Old 23-03-2021, 15:30
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Ouch, that looks like a long list.....

Some of them you could sort yourself eg battery securing, it may be corrosion of the body work or not tight or a grotty securing bar, but that you could fix.

The brake problems (except corroded pipes) could be due to not being driven enough... take it for a drive to eg Barnard Castle and use the brakes a lot ? We had that with ours and it sorted itself out with a 100 Mike+ drive, carefully...

Check rear fog lamp bulb, then check socket for loose connection,

Showing white to rear - how much white ? Is the housing broken or any blanking baffle inside ? Check yourself.

Seatbelt may be corrosion and need a plate welded...... but replacing belts is very difficult due to non-availability.....

Do you have a friend who could weld to correct corrosion problems ? Cheaper than garages, worth checking.

If that was all done by a garage my guess would be higher than £1500, sorry, but it needs tackling urgently.

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post #4 of 174 (permalink) Old 23-03-2021, 15:34
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Yes...a good 'indie' who likes welding should sort you out as Alan says.

Near us there's a chap who runs a small fleet of mini busses for school runs (we are very rural) so if you have someone around you like that maybe ask where they take their vans for work (if you haven't anywhere in mind)

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post #5 of 174 (permalink) Old 23-03-2021, 15:49 Thread Starter
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The garage its at have a really good body shop and I trust them. They wont do a bodge up job though. I honestly would not have a clue where to take it other than them to be honest. I have a feeling the battery might be my fault. I took it off a while back to charge it and maybe I never put the fastener back on. Sure I did though.

Still waiting to hear. I am hoping that repairs can be done that will last and its not going to be a case of going through this every year. I was thinking of selling it anyway. Needs the syncro doing on the gearbox as well. 3rd and 5th very crunchy.


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post #6 of 174 (permalink) Old 23-03-2021, 16:04
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The difference between a welding patch repair, which you might think of as a bit of a bodge but should still last the life of the van, and doing it to the standard of a professional body shop could be very substantial. They probably won't bodge (an unfair description of an adequate repair) they will fabricate parts and do what ever stripping and cutting out is necessary and then replace with the part they've made. It'll certainly look nicer.

Professional body shop for a classic vehicle from which you want another 25 years. What you describe as a bodge for a vehicle which has a limited life of say 10 or so more years anyway.

I sometimes wonder why you ask when you immediately reject what you are told. You tit.
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post #7 of 174 (permalink) Old 23-03-2021, 16:15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erneboy View Post
You tit.


He knows you well Barry
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post #8 of 174 (permalink) Old 23-03-2021, 16:24 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erneboy View Post
The difference between a welding patch repair, which you might think of as a bit of a bodge but should still last the life of the van, and doing it to the standard of a professional body shop could be very substantial. They probably won't bodge (an unfair description of an adequate repair) they will fabricate parts and do what ever stripping and cutting out is necessary and then replace with the part they've made. It'll certainly look nicer.

Professional body shop for a classic vehicle from which you want another 25 years. What you describe as a bodge for a vehicle which has a limited life of say 10 or so more years anyway.

I sometimes wonder why you ask when you immediately reject what you are told. You tit.
I haven't rejected what you said. What gave you that idea? Until I know what they propose and what the costs are I have no idea what I am facing. Im kind of stuffed though as finding an old fashioned mechanic right now wont be easy. It will likely be Darlington unless there is someone in Barnard Castle or Richmond that might be prepared to take it on but then I cant really rake it around the towns for them to look at it as its now no longer tested or roadworthy so it would have to come back here and they would have to come out to look at it which I imagine many wont be arsed to do plus I would have no idea who I was dealing with.

Its possible I could get a local recommendation though on FB. See what the garage says. Matty the owner will be honest I would say.
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post #9 of 174 (permalink) Old 23-03-2021, 16:43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barryd View Post
I haven't rejected what you said. What gave you that idea? Until I know what they propose and what the costs are I have no idea what I am facing. Im kind of stuffed though as finding an old fashioned mechanic right now wont be easy. It will likely be Darlington unless there is someone in Barnard Castle or Richmond that might be prepared to take it on but then I cant really rake it around the towns for them to look at it as its now no longer tested or roadworthy so it would have to come back here and they would have to come out to look at it which I imagine many wont be arsed to do plus I would have no idea who I was dealing with.

Its possible I could get a local recommendation though on FB. See what the garage says. Matty the owner will be honest I would say.
Yes. I just wanted to call you a tit.
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post #10 of 174 (permalink) Old 23-03-2021, 17:21 Thread Starter
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