I have a 1996 Swift Kontiki with a Cascade 2 water heater. During a long trip recently I have noticed it leaking water from the Cowl. Its got a little worse and I would like to get it repaired. I have taken the Cowl off but water just seems to be seeping from the metal end of the heater. Im sorry but Im not very technical. I had a look on the Arcsystems site (found it in a similar thread here) and at the PDF manual and in the trouble shooting guide it says the following
Symptom - Water coming from Cowl
Cause - Pressure relief valve operating on temprature rise
Cure - Check pump pressure for high valve
Not sure what any of this means. We only got the van last year and were not aware we should drain it in winter although we did use it throughout the winter so Im not sure if its got frost damage.
We live in North Yorkshire and would like to get it fixed ASAP. Our nearest MH dealers are Catterick Caravans and Ropers Caravans but not had much to do with them in the past, will most dealers be able to sort this or can I do it myself?
If it only leaks when hot it might be the valve but if its leaking when cold then I would check all the connections but I would suspect its had its day?
If it is only when hot perhaps the water is getting too hot. I have a vague memory of being able to set the hot water temperature on these, at least when running on electric. Check it and set to about 55C
We also had a leak this year it was the pressure valve which is on the outside under the plastic cowl at the top left on the heater.
This is a common fault im told, the plastic valve weakens over time and cracks causing leaks.
This valve changed its name from a pressure relief valve to a quick release or drain valve, because under pressure the tank itself would pop off before the valve would open thus making it useless.
So as its not really needed as a safty thing, you can try like I did ( and its still working fine) twist off the valve until it breaks off scary but its already bust so nothing to loose.
Once snapped off you will have a hole with the remains of the valve (plastic) find a screw/bolt that fits into the hole quite tight to blank it off.
Be very careful when you do this not to use to bigger screw/bolt the metal cast of the heater is not very strong and you dont want to crack it.
If you want to try and get the broken thread out and put a new valve in (about £10) you can use a hacksaw blade to cut it into bits but be careful not to get bits in the tank or cut the thread.
Do not use a stud extractor to get the plastic out it will crack the case.
I called Gary at Arc systems really helpful the Tel is 01159213175, they do an exchange for £60 if all goes wrong.
It seems to leak any old time, certainly not just when the water heater is on. If you turn the general water switch on every so often it the pump activates on its own like its feeding water through or there is a pressure problem, go outside and its dribbling away.
No problem , remove the plastic cover from the Carver Cascade then first check the pressure relief valve (top left) to see if water escapes from there when heating up. The fusible plug will be located in the centre of the the unit , an hexagonal head nut and check if water is leaking from there.
We also had a leak this year it was the pressure valve which is on the outside under the plastic cowl at the top left on the heater.
This is a common fault im told, the plastic valve weakens over time and cracks causing leaks.
This valve changed its name from a pressure relief valve to a quick release or drain valve, because under pressure the tank itself would pop off before the valve would open thus making it useless.
So as its not really needed as a safty thing, you can try like I did ( and its still working fine) twist off the valve until it breaks off scary but its already bust so nothing to loose.
Once snapped off you will have a hole with the remains of the valve (plastic) find a screw/bolt that fits into the hole quite tight to blank it off.
Be very careful when you do this not to use to bigger screw/bolt the metal cast of the heater is not very strong and you dont want to crack it.
If you want to try and get the broken thread out and put a new valve in (about £10) you can use a hacksaw blade to cut it into bits but be careful not to get bits in the tank or cut the thread.
Do not use a stud extractor to get the plastic out it will crack the case.
I called a company sorry forgotten the name but really helpful the Tel is 01159213175, they do an exchange for £60 if all goes wrong.
So if I botch it then I can take it to bits, exchange it for £60 and then take all the bits in a box along to somebody who knows how to use a screwdriver?
Thanks very much will recruit engineering chap next door and have a go!
There is a good article in the October MMM where a Carver heater is replaced by a modern alternative from Whale. With a 1996 vehicle this might be your next move!
I have a 1996 Swift Kontiki with a Cascade 2 water heater. During a long trip recently I have noticed it leaking water from the Cowl. Its got a little worse and I would like to get it repaired. I have taken the Cowl off but water just seems to be seeping from the metal end of the heater. Im sorry but Im not very technical. I had a look on the Arcsystems site (found it in a similar thread here) and at the PDF manual and in the trouble shooting guide it says the following
Symptom - Water coming from Cowl
Cause - Pressure relief valve operating on temprature rise
Cure - Check pump pressure for high valve
Not sure what any of this means. We only got the van last year and were not aware we should drain it in winter although we did use it throughout the winter so Im not sure if its got frost damage.
We live in North Yorkshire and would like to get it fixed ASAP. Our nearest MH dealers are Catterick Caravans and Ropers Caravans but not had much to do with them in the past, will most dealers be able to sort this or can I do it myself?
Hi,
It may be the large 'o' ring in the top body seal of the heater. These can leak due to age and movement of the heater. If you are a DIY I have a strip down guide and some photos.
We also had a leak this year it was the pressure valve which is on the outside under the plastic cowl at the top left on the heater.
This is a common fault im told, the plastic valve weakens over time and cracks causing leaks.
This valve changed its name from a pressure relief valve to a quick release or drain valve, because under pressure the tank itself would pop off before the valve would open thus making it useless.
So as its not really needed as a safty thing, you can try like I did ( and its still working fine) twist off the valve until it breaks off scary but its already bust so nothing to loose.
Once snapped off you will have a hole with the remains of the valve (plastic) find a screw/bolt that fits into the hole quite tight to blank it off.
Be very careful when you do this not to use to bigger screw/bolt the metal cast of the heater is not very strong and you dont want to crack it.
If you want to try and get the broken thread out and put a new valve in (about £10) you can use a hacksaw blade to cut it into bits but be careful not to get bits in the tank or cut the thread.
Do not use a stud extractor to get the plastic out it will crack the case.
I called Gary at Arc systems really helpful the Tel is 01159213175, they do an exchange for £60 if all goes wrong.
Well folks it just goes to show how fantastic forums like this are and I am absolutely delighted today!
Didn't get around to sorting the leaking water tank until today but I couldn't avoid it any longer, even dreamed about it last night!!!
Chris your instructions were perfect. When I examined the pressure valve I could trace the leak back to that.
One quick turn and off it broke! Pulled all the bits out found a good bold and some good flat washers and in it went. Turned everything back on. No Leak and as a bonus no buzz from the pump every 2 minutes as water leaks out and it tops it up or adjusts the pressure.
I really cant thank you enough. I almost bottled it and I did phone a dealer and it was only the fact that they told me they might not get parts for a while and it could take a while that spurred me on to follow your instructions.
I even managed to fit a new shower hose as that was knackered as well!
Only issue is Mrs D will be starting to think I can put my new found DIY skills to use around the house!
Many Many thanks Chris and everyone else who offered similar advice!
You have opened up a thread that was started in 2009, 12 years ago.
It is very unlikely that many of those posting on it would see it, but you might be lucky as barryd who started the thread is still around and still encountering problems.....
He may well be able to stretch his memory back that far and is always keen to help where he can
Well it leaks a little bit out of the actual drain plug. However the plot thickens. That bolt I put in where the pressure valve was maybe wasnt such a good idea after all. Does anyone remember the Christmas Day 2012 "Boiler has blown up" thread?
I fitted a used Cascade 2 into my self build, I mocked it up first and it leaked in two places, I got replacements off ebay, sorted, I also had a leaking but working burner bar, and someone sent me a good one gratis.
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