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Leaking Cascade 2 water heater

19K views 20 replies 10 participants last post by  Pudsey_Bear 
#1 ·
Hi all

I have a 1996 Swift Kontiki with a Cascade 2 water heater. During a long trip recently I have noticed it leaking water from the Cowl. Its got a little worse and I would like to get it repaired. I have taken the Cowl off but water just seems to be seeping from the metal end of the heater. Im sorry but Im not very technical. I had a look on the Arcsystems site (found it in a similar thread here) and at the PDF manual and in the trouble shooting guide it says the following

Symptom - Water coming from Cowl
Cause - Pressure relief valve operating on temprature rise
Cure - Check pump pressure for high valve

Not sure what any of this means. We only got the van last year and were not aware we should drain it in winter although we did use it throughout the winter so Im not sure if its got frost damage.

We live in North Yorkshire and would like to get it fixed ASAP. Our nearest MH dealers are Catterick Caravans and Ropers Caravans but not had much to do with them in the past, will most dealers be able to sort this or can I do it myself?

Any feedback appreciated.
 
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#3 ·
CLS said:
Have you checked the fusible plug ? Link below for pic and details

http://www.thecaravanspecialists.co.uk/product.asp?cookiecheck=yes&P_ID=825

Mark
Hi Mark

Thanks for the reply, cant get that link to work despite enabling cookies but I did find a pic of a fusible plug on the caravanspecialist site.

Really sorry but im none the wiser, where exactly should I be looking and what is the purpose of this plug.

Go easy on me, I know nothing!

Cheers
Barry
 
#4 ·
If it only leaks when hot it might be the valve but if its leaking when cold then I would check all the connections but I would suspect its had its day?

If it is only when hot perhaps the water is getting too hot. I have a vague memory of being able to set the hot water temperature on these, at least when running on electric. Check it and set to about 55C

peedee
 
#5 ·
Hi barryd

I have the same van and wter system as you.

We also had a leak this year it was the pressure valve which is on the outside under the plastic cowl at the top left on the heater.

This is a common fault im told, the plastic valve weakens over time and cracks causing leaks.

This valve changed its name from a pressure relief valve to a quick release or drain valve, because under pressure the tank itself would pop off before the valve would open thus making it useless.

So as its not really needed as a safty thing, you can try like I did ( and its still working fine) twist off the valve until it breaks off scary but its already bust so nothing to loose.

Once snapped off you will have a hole with the remains of the valve (plastic) find a screw/bolt that fits into the hole quite tight to blank it off.

Be very careful when you do this not to use to bigger screw/bolt the metal cast of the heater is not very strong and you dont want to crack it.

If you want to try and get the broken thread out and put a new valve in (about £10) you can use a hacksaw blade to cut it into bits but be careful not to get bits in the tank or cut the thread.

Do not use a stud extractor to get the plastic out it will crack the case.

I called Gary at Arc systems really helpful the Tel is 01159213175, they do an exchange for £60 if all goes wrong.

I hope I havent waffled on and hope this helps.

Chris

I d
 
#6 ·
It seems to leak any old time, certainly not just when the water heater is on. If you turn the general water switch on every so often it the pump activates on its own like its feeding water through or there is a pressure problem, go outside and its dribbling away.
 
#8 ·
chrisndeb said:
Hi barryd

I have the same van and wter system as you.

We also had a leak this year it was the pressure valve which is on the outside under the plastic cowl at the top left on the heater.

This is a common fault im told, the plastic valve weakens over time and cracks causing leaks.

This valve changed its name from a pressure relief valve to a quick release or drain valve, because under pressure the tank itself would pop off before the valve would open thus making it useless.

So as its not really needed as a safty thing, you can try like I did ( and its still working fine) twist off the valve until it breaks off scary but its already bust so nothing to loose.

Once snapped off you will have a hole with the remains of the valve (plastic) find a screw/bolt that fits into the hole quite tight to blank it off.

Be very careful when you do this not to use to bigger screw/bolt the metal cast of the heater is not very strong and you dont want to crack it.

If you want to try and get the broken thread out and put a new valve in (about £10) you can use a hacksaw blade to cut it into bits but be careful not to get bits in the tank or cut the thread.

Do not use a stud extractor to get the plastic out it will crack the case.

I called a company sorry forgotten the name but really helpful the Tel is 01159213175, they do an exchange for £60 if all goes wrong.

I hope I havent waffled on and hope this helps.

Chris

I d
Great info Chris, will have a look but I suspect this may be stretching my DIY capabilities. I have some rather clever neighbors though!

When you say that company do an exchange, can you clarify what they exchange for £60?

Thanks very much
Barry
 
#10 ·
chrisndeb said:
Hi Barry

The exchange is the cast part of the heater, which would mean a strip down ie remove the heater.

Try what I said It works and its easy just be careful not to crack it.

Also a web site to have a look at for bits & advice www.preloved.co.uk

Good luck

Chris
So if I botch it then I can take it to bits, exchange it for £60 and then take all the bits in a box along to somebody who knows how to use a screwdriver?

Thanks very much will recruit engineering chap next door and have a go!

Barry
 
#12 ·
barryd said:
Hi all

I have a 1996 Swift Kontiki with a Cascade 2 water heater. During a long trip recently I have noticed it leaking water from the Cowl. Its got a little worse and I would like to get it repaired. I have taken the Cowl off but water just seems to be seeping from the metal end of the heater. Im sorry but Im not very technical. I had a look on the Arcsystems site (found it in a similar thread here) and at the PDF manual and in the trouble shooting guide it says the following

Symptom - Water coming from Cowl
Cause - Pressure relief valve operating on temprature rise
Cure - Check pump pressure for high valve

Not sure what any of this means. We only got the van last year and were not aware we should drain it in winter although we did use it throughout the winter so Im not sure if its got frost damage.

We live in North Yorkshire and would like to get it fixed ASAP. Our nearest MH dealers are Catterick Caravans and Ropers Caravans but not had much to do with them in the past, will most dealers be able to sort this or can I do it myself?

Any feedback appreciated.
Hi,
It may be the large 'o' ring in the top body seal of the heater. These can leak due to age and movement of the heater. If you are a DIY I have a strip down guide and some photos.

Regards

Graham
 
#13 ·
chrisndeb said:
Hi barryd

I have the same van and wter system as you.

We also had a leak this year it was the pressure valve which is on the outside under the plastic cowl at the top left on the heater.

This is a common fault im told, the plastic valve weakens over time and cracks causing leaks.

This valve changed its name from a pressure relief valve to a quick release or drain valve, because under pressure the tank itself would pop off before the valve would open thus making it useless.

So as its not really needed as a safty thing, you can try like I did ( and its still working fine) twist off the valve until it breaks off scary but its already bust so nothing to loose.

Once snapped off you will have a hole with the remains of the valve (plastic) find a screw/bolt that fits into the hole quite tight to blank it off.

Be very careful when you do this not to use to bigger screw/bolt the metal cast of the heater is not very strong and you dont want to crack it.

If you want to try and get the broken thread out and put a new valve in (about £10) you can use a hacksaw blade to cut it into bits but be careful not to get bits in the tank or cut the thread.

Do not use a stud extractor to get the plastic out it will crack the case.

I called Gary at Arc systems really helpful the Tel is 01159213175, they do an exchange for £60 if all goes wrong.

I hope I havent waffled on and hope this helps.

Chris

I d
Well folks it just goes to show how fantastic forums like this are and I am absolutely delighted today!

Didn't get around to sorting the leaking water tank until today but I couldn't avoid it any longer, even dreamed about it last night!!!

Chris your instructions were perfect. When I examined the pressure valve I could trace the leak back to that.

One quick turn and off it broke! Pulled all the bits out found a good bold and some good flat washers and in it went. Turned everything back on. No Leak and as a bonus no buzz from the pump every 2 minutes as water leaks out and it tops it up or adjusts the pressure.

I really cant thank you enough. I almost bottled it and I did phone a dealer and it was only the fact that they told me they might not get parts for a while and it could take a while that spurred me on to follow your instructions.

I even managed to fit a new shower hose as that was knackered as well!

Only issue is Mrs D will be starting to think I can put my new found DIY skills to use around the house!

Many Many thanks Chris and everyone else who offered similar advice!

Cheers
Barry
 
#17 ·
You have opened up a thread that was started in 2009, 12 years ago.

It is very unlikely that many of those posting on it would see it, but you might be lucky as barryd who started the thread is still around and still encountering problems.....

He may well be able to stretch his memory back that far and is always keen to help where he can
 
#20 ·
Blimey!! It still flaming well leaks! :lol:

Well it leaks a little bit out of the actual drain plug. However the plot thickens. That bolt I put in where the pressure valve was maybe wasnt such a good idea after all. Does anyone remember the Christmas Day 2012 "Boiler has blown up" thread? :D

https://forums.motorhomefacts.com/220-water-sanitation-heating/106125-help-boiler-has-blown-up.html

That gave all the blokes something to do that Christmas day for sure.

Sticking a bolt in your pressure valve as it turns out, maybe not such a good idea. :lol:
 
#21 ·
I fitted a used Cascade 2 into my self build, I mocked it up first and it leaked in two places, I got replacements off ebay, sorted, I also had a leaking but working burner bar, and someone sent me a good one gratis.
 
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