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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 30-07-2019, 09:50 Thread Starter
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Frig on Gas too hot

This is an old topic but still a problem. Our frig now I guess 20 years old hard to believe time flys. Anyway it works fine on current as expected on 12 volts, but on gas the temp. is hovering around 14 to 18 deg C. There is a good flame in the burner. I have two fans in the exhaust vent which don´t make any difference. It is hot now but even in the night the temp only went down to 15. Any ideas are welcome. I have a thermometer in side that reads outside without opening the door so I know for sure what the temp is. The camper is Hymer and the controls are all manual.

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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 30-07-2019, 10:43
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When you say "works fine on current as expected on 12 volts," Do you mean it works OK on MAINS voltage and 12V or just one or the other??

It does seem very bizarre that the problem is when its on gas because thats usually the most efficient source! At 20 years old I would suspect that it possibly needs re-gassing, but if, as you say, its fine on the other sources it clearly has enough coolant gas circulating.

SO.........

Does the gas actually ignite when gas is selected? as that would seem to be the only possible cause of it not working !! Have you actually checked to see if there is a flame??? If it ignites and then goes out its probably the thermocouple thats failed.

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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 30-07-2019, 12:51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrplodd View Post
When you say "works fine on current as expected on 12 volts," Do you mean it works OK on MAINS voltage and 12V or just one or the other??

It does seem very bizarre that the problem is when its on gas because thats usually the most efficient source! At 20 years old I would suspect that it possibly needs re-gassing, but if, as you say, its fine on the other sources it clearly has enough coolant gas circulating.

SO.........

Does the gas actually ignite when gas is selected? as that would seem to be the only possible cause of it not working !! Have you actually checked to see if there is a flame??? If it ignites and then goes out its probably the thermocouple thats failed.

Andy
Re gassing an absorption fridge is not financially viable (ammonia as refrigerant).
And I think you'd struggle to find anyone to do it anyway, also if it works on electrical power then the cooling part of the system must be OK, worth checking the flue is properly clear (and the spiral deflector is in place) and that the flame is as good as it ought to be.

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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 30-07-2019, 13:06
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as eurajohn says

also an amonia fridge with a leak would really smell of amonia

barry
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 30-07-2019, 13:38
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More like a restriction in the flue. Give it a whack and see the crud drop out.

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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 31-07-2019, 13:51 Thread Starter
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We are moving around so the slow reply, on current it seems to work ok, never great but at least at night or when the temperature is low it goes down even to 1,5 C. On 12 I never expect it to be great. but at least it seems as good as on gas. I did have a look at the flu I think it is ok but will look again. The burner stays lit, not sure if it is the maximum but it is hot to touch. I suspect it may not be as hot as it should get. A while back it would not come on so I cleaned it some but could not undo the pipe fitting so left it maybe the pipe is corroded. I was thinking about refilling the refrigerant but maybe not an option.

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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 31-07-2019, 17:50
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Originally Posted by jhelm View Post
The burner stays lit, not sure if it is the maximum but it is hot to touch. I suspect it may not be as hot as it should get. A while back it would not come on so I cleaned it some but could not undo the pipe fitting so left it maybe the pipe is corroded. I was thinking about refilling the refrigerant but maybe not an option.
Hi jhelm, I believe you may have answered your own question.

Before attempting this isolate both 12 & 240v electric supplies and turn gas off.

Might I suggest that you completely dismantle the gas burner assembly and clear out the debris (Rust) from the burner itself. I will guarantee that you will remove about a tea spoonful of rust. If as you say that you had difficulty in removing the retaining nut, pre soak it with a good squirt of WD40 and leave it for a while. The little jet shown will need a good clean but no attempt should be made to enlarge the hole although it can be cleaned with a Primus Pricker or an extremely fine sewing needle. If you attempt this take care not to lose or damage the jet. Before assembling clean out the flu, most of the debris comes from this.

I believe on an absorption fridge it is impossible to top up the refrigerant.

I used to do this twice a year on my 1993 Hymer that I had for nearly twenty years and never once did it let me down. If you have any questions please ask.
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 31-07-2019, 22:19 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Drew View Post
Hi jhelm, I believe you may have answered your own question.

Before attempting this isolate both 12 & 240v electric supplies and turn gas off.

Might I suggest that you completely dismantle the gas burner assembly and clear out the debris (Rust) from the burner itself. I will guarantee that you will remove about a tea spoonful of rust. If as you say that you had difficulty in removing the retaining nut, pre soak it with a good squirt of WD40 and leave it for a while. The little jet shown will need a good clean but no attempt should be made to enlarge the hole although it can be cleaned with a Primus Pricker or an extremely fine sewing needle. If you attempt this take care not to lose or damage the jet. Before assembling clean out the flu, most of the debris comes from this.

I believe on an absorption fridge it is impossible to top up the refrigerant.

I used to do this twice a year on my 1993 Hymer that I had for nearly twenty years and never once did it let me down. If you have any questions please ask.
That´s my burner, 2000 Hymer, I will do as you suggest, but just need to figure out when I can do it. We are on the road, tonight in a aria di sosta with elec. hook up and the temp. inside is down to 8 deg C, not perfect but acceptable considering the outside temp.

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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 08:15
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Maybe of some assistance, below a description of the process I wrote some years back for this forum.

Firstly with the outer vent cover off and the burner shield removed have a helper turn the control from off to gas operation, if the igniter sparks but no flame is produced you can safely assume no gas is being delivered to the burner, the most common reason is dirt, dust, rust covering the top of burner, it is very very unlikely to be a blocked jet as there is an efficient filter / strainer upstream of jet. It is also possible that there is a fault / failure of the gas control device, however that is quite rare, so won't go into detail here.
If you consider yourself proficient enough to carry out DIY repairs you will need a pozi drive No.2 screwdriver, an 11mm open end spanner and a 13mm open end spanner.
Before you start work turn fridge control to off and isolate the gas supply to fridge.
If fitted remove the push on earth connector on burner head (later models don't have separate earth lead) then unplug the igniter and flame failure leads from the control module (they simply push in and pull out) make a note of which one goes where.
Support the square aluminium jet / burner housing with the 13mm spanner and undo the 11mm nut that retains the gas feed pipe into the burner, undo the single No.2 pozi screw that holds the burner assembly to the exhaust tube, allow the burner housing to drop away from exhaust tube and carefully remove the burner assembly, be aware that the jet is simply dropped into the housing and held in place with the feed tube, so is free to fall out and get lost on floor, it is a small pressed dished washer like device that has a tiny hole in the centre. When you have the assembly safely on a clean work surface ensure that the ring of holes at the top of the burner are clear of obstruction and clean if available blow out with compressed air, ensure the jet is actually clear but under no circumstance poke anything in it, the size of the hole is critical to the correct operation of the fridge, so long as the hole is clear and there is no damage to it you will not need a new jet they do not wear. It is possible the flue exhaust will also need cleaning, it's not unknown for them to become blocked by spiders etc. a long bottle type brush is best here , don't try to pull rag through it will get jammed, also if cleaning the flue you will need to access the top of pipe and remove the spiral baffle within the flue before you attempt to clean it, it is simply dropped back in place after cleaning.
Re-assembly is a reversal of dismantling, ensure the jet is correctly placed within the burner (dished end towards burner), at this stage do not replace the burner shield, turn on the gas supply and get your helper to turn control to gas operation, you may need to do this a few times to bleed air out of supply pipe, the burner should now light and stay alight, using a leak detector fluid ensure any joint you disturbed is sound and not leaking. Turn off fridge control and the taking care as the area will now be hot replace the shield and outer covers.


If the burner fires up but fails to stay alight the flame failure device is faulty and you will need to purchase a new burner assembly as they do not supply the flame failure probe separately.


As I mentioned earlier only attempt this if you feel confident to do so otherwise get a qualified and certified person to carry out the repairs for you.
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-08-2019, 10:11 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew View Post
Hi jhelm, I believe you may have answered your own question.

Before attempting this isolate both 12 & 240v electric supplies and turn gas off.

Might I suggest that you completely dismantle the gas burner assembly and clear out the debris (Rust) from the burner itself. I will guarantee that you will remove about a tea spoonful of rust. If as you say that you had difficulty in removing the retaining nut, pre soak it with a good squirt of WD40 and leave it for a while. The little jet shown will need a good clean but no attempt should be made to enlarge the hole although it can be cleaned with a Primus Pricker or an extremely fine sewing needle. If you attempt this take care not to lose or damage the jet. Before assembling clean out the flu, most of the debris comes from this.

I believe on an absorption fridge it is impossible to top up the refrigerant.

I used to do this twice a year on my 1993 Hymer that I had for nearly twenty years and never once did it let me down. If you have any questions please ask.
Help, the connection between the burner and the feed pipe is totally stuck. Am I trying to turn it the wrong way?? Is it reverse threaded like the connection to the propane tanks?

If you have questions about touring, living, driving, etc in Italy message me.
www.johnandluisa.blogspot.com
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