My teak (I think) garden furniture sits outside all year. It looks lovely when just treated with teak oil but it doesn't last.
I scrubbed off the gunge with lots of water n elbow grease. Put oil on yesterday but the surface of the wood is kind of 'hairy' n it didn't look that great.
Pics:
1. After wash/dry/several wipes of oil
2. The bottom slat was almost completely sanded down, the 2nd - only the left, then oil applied. A much better finish. Oops, 2nd is on its side. Bottom is to left.
Now, the question - a friend has a sander which would make the job a lot easier. But if it's a circular sander would it still do a good (reasonable, I'm not too precious!) job or would it damage the wood?
The advice I received with my teak (yes, it looks just like yours) bench was to allow it to weather to a lovely grey colour. Teak is, after all, the wood of choice on many boats, so it must be up to it.
However, we didn't like it although the bird droppings were less noticeable on the greyest areas!
So like you I rubbed the wood by hand, having used a scrubbing brush to get the worst of the algae off, thus generating that hairy surface. Apply the oil and we have a lovely brown colour again. I've kept on top of it and it hasn't needed sanding, so I can't answer your question but I would expect a circular sander to be OK.
Gordon (no responsibility accepted for following my advice)
PS I bought fairly expensive weather-proof covers and they keep the worst of the problems at bay, allowing me to oil once per year.
So like you I rubbed the wood by hand, having used a scrubbing brush to get the worst of the algae off, thus generating that hairy surface. Apply the oil and we have a lovely brown colour again. I've kept on top of it and it hasn't needed sanding, so I can't answer your question but I would expect a circular sander to be OK.
I also bought covers but as it lives just outside my bedroom I found that the racket the cover made in high wind was too much. I placed a weighted box on the middle of the table. When I removed the cover I had a large, horrible, black stain which took some removing. I'll not do that again!
I am remembering what Hans did when he made all our wooden skirting boards and loads of other Wooden things, after each coat of varnish or whatever it was he used, he rubbed it down with fine paper because the `Hairs´ of wood stood up, he probably did it twice and then the third coat would be fine. So I reckon you need to rub it down Jean to get rid of the hairs.
We washed off the oil and gave them several coats of satin varnish, NOT water based , sanding between every coat
I think if we had oiled outdoor furniture we would do the same, our two oak benches are very old and have a degree of lichen on them, which as we rarely sit on them suits our garden style fine
Sandra, would you choose the wooden worktop for your kitchen again if you had to? We chose it but I am a bit disappointed at the marks and staining etc. I know we can sand and oil it but I don't want to. I love the look of it and the marks seem to add character in this old cottage. In the new bungalow, though, everything is likely to be more modern so am not sure that the wooden work top is the best type to choose this time?
I am having a lot of wood in the new bungalow because I love it and it is much easier to maintain. The wooden worktop would, therefore, match in with the house (though I haven't yet chosen the kitchen units!)
It’s not the sander that will do the damage, we’ve renovated plenty of furniture, an orbital sander is best, the important bit is use various grades of abrasive paper gradual working down to a very fine grade.
Before finally finishing with a fine grade paper, damped a cloth and wipe the surface, this raises the grain slightly to allow a really smooth final sanding.
I have teak garden furniture and love the silver aged look, wouldn't dream of oiling it. It is now at least 15 years old and as sound as new. I don't like it dirty though and it has a thorough powerwash every spring after being out all winter. Looks great when the sun comes out. Looks good as well next to silvered oak beams.
It will raise the surface grain but a sanding with 160 grit abrasive paper then a final fine 240 grit will leave a nice finish, the natural oils in the wood can clog the paper so refresh it as necessary.
Quality teak furniture does not need treatment and will fade to a lovely (highly prized by some) silver colour. The "teak oil" sold is useful if you want to have that "new" look to it. OR if it is used in a maritime situation.
We have had a dining table and chairs that we put out every year at Easter and bring in at the end of Oct. It has been out every year come rain or shine for since 1988 and the wood apart from the silver grey colour is as sound as the day it was bought.
No coincidence that it was the timber of choice for luxury yatch decks. Lots of "teak" furniture is not proper teak.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Motorhome Facts Forum
1.6M posts
111.8K members
Since 2003
A forum community dedicated to campers and Motorhome owners and enthusiasts based in the UK. Come join the discussion about camping, RV models, gear, repairs, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more!