Hi,
Any hints , tips, advice for how best to set up storage in a Motorhome garage?
I have a Cheyenne it's the first time I've had a garage so want to start as I mean to go on and get a bit organised rather than sifting through numerous boxes and containers decanting everything outside until I find the item I want.
Any advice on stacking or racking or storage options would be much appreciated.
Thanks
Steve

I have the Fiamma rails with eyes top and bottom, front and back. I use bungees to hold stuff against the walls, like table/chairs, washing whirligig; small but strong 's' hooks to hang stuff from the eyes, like coiled water hose, hose attachments, extra toilet/kitchen rolls, 10l water carrier....

I have a folding electric bike that sits in 1 corner.

My new van has shelved storage on the front wall and while I thought it was too shallow to be of much use, it's actually amazing what I can store there - the various liquids required for the van (screenwash, oil, coolant...), bits for the bike, for washing, repairing...

But I think the most useful thing in the garage is the 2nd door.

I had a 696G for a few years and, by a system of trial and error worked out the below system.

“Aquire” a few bread baskets or the sort that supermarkets use for fruit and veg.
Then get yourself some timber battens (2x1 roofing batten was what I used, cheap and easily replaced if necessary, and make up a framework. I made up a frame that stood on the garage floor and was secured to the front wall of the garage. Mine held three of the above crates and was located against the front wall of the garage on the passengers side. The bottom section (the floor) I left free of any of the crates for whatever I wanted to put there, the next one up was fixed to the frame and the two above slid out (twds the back of the garage) BUT I made a couple of small (easily removed) braces across the bottom corners. That way I could, if I wanted, slide the crates out to gain access etc. I also left enough room to access the top of the crates without having to pull them out. Label the side of the crate with what’s in it (you WILL forget otherwise)
I had a couple of folding bikes that were strapped to another wooden batten secured to the back wall of the garage by some small ratchet straps secured to large hooks fixed to the batten.
A full size spare wheel was on the drivers side, held flat against the front wall, again by (larger) ratchet straps. The Full size Cadac was bungee strapped to the spare wheel. I still had space for other “stuff” like chairs etc.

One VITAL addition I added was a decent lighting system in the garage, cheap self adhesive LED strip lights fixed just above the locker doors with a switch for each located somewhere easily accessible but not easily hit. I actually used a couple of domestic pull switches (like in a bathroom) fixed to the garage “roof”, cheap as chips from B&Q. Trying to find something in your garage, in the dark, using a torch when it’s raining soon makes you appreciate the value of lighting. A small warning light alongside the access door from the habitation area makes sure you don’t leave them on over night!

Hope that gives you some ideas, but I would suggest that you spend a fair while working out exactly you want in the garage, how often you are likely to access it, and how easy that access needs to be BEFORE making any form of framework.
Oh nearly forget, another crate just inside the access door for fruit and veg so you don’t need to go outside to grab an apple!

Good luck.

Andy

Thank you so much for taking the time to explain in detail, it's really appreciated and luckily your mention of leaving the light on reminded me I had left the light on that's fitted in the garage! Going out now to switch it off ..... Good call 😀

Forget bungees, except for very light individual items. For anything substantial I, like Andy, use ratchet straps - much more secure. Not expensive in packets of 5 or so.

My garage has plinths along both front and back edges and somebody fitted vertical poles about 10" from each end. These are useful anchors for attaching straps.

Geoff

Try to put all the heavy items on or against the front wall of the garage, then in heavy braking they will stay put, be careful of screwing anything to the rear wall, I got a couple of lengths of 3x1 timber and stuck them up with no nails, and a couple of screws just enough to hold them, then anything can be mounted on those.

Do beware of the floors weight limit, it won't be that high, and there should be a sticker with it on.

Hi

Being sad; i actually mapped mine out in a diagram in MS paint, but i do think it's probably a bit out of date now



If you look at the post i made that i've linked to below it essentially shows the garage part of the diagram above and may give you some ideas

<link here>

Hope this helps

Lee

For stowing poles, long things etc., rainwater guttering with stop ends running across the garage (side to side0. Consider a false floor for half the width of the garage made out of MDF or 22mm chip board (does add weight though). Our Kontiki 669 allowed us to slot in a false floor as there were lips in the garage that meant we could just drop sections in at will. Space below false floor was 12" and 24" above.