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Newbie with truma 6002 problems

31K views 71 replies 33 participants last post by  Jaks101 
#1 ·
Hi,

Not sure if this is the right area to post this but anyway, I have a adria 3 berth MH on a 2006 fiat ducato that I am having trouble getting my boiler to work,

The combi boiler is a truma C 6002 which does both, hot water and heating,

When I turn the truma thermostat to the winter setting 60 degrees the green light comes on with the amber, but after a couple of minutes the amber light goes out and a red light comes on,

I can hear a clicking noise when I first turn the dial on then to 60 degrees and then a louder click and then nothing, the same happens when I turn the dial on to summer setting 40-60 degrees,

I have contacted a number of people from the truma website,

The first person I contacted said it could be the PCB board which would cost over £200+, and that there was no real way to test this part to see if it was even broken, he also told me that if he rang Truma they would just say start with fitting a new PCB board and then go through all the parts, by that time I would be well into £1000+

Another person I contacted said he could test the PCB board and then go through all the other parts to find out what was broken,

I then called another engineer just for piece of mind and he told me that he could test the circuit board to see if it had any broken bits on it and if so he could replace the broken part on the PCB board,

Not sure which road to go down or do I just scrap the boiler and fit a new one??

Any help would be much appreciated,
Ab
 
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#6 ·
adria123 said:
Yes I have removed the external flew cover, and the gas seems to be fine I can get gas on the hob/grill
If it uses the same controls as our Truma then you can use one of 3 settings. Gas only.....electric only......or gas and electric together.

The red light sounds like a failure in the gas side of things. Have you tried the boiler on electric only to see if that works first? If you can try and narrow down the fault a bit that may help in identifying the problem.
 
#8 ·
Hi adria123

Firstly, the 60/40 degree setting is to determine the temperature of the hot water, not primarily connected with summer/winter use. If you're using the heater to heat water only without space heating are you certain that the boiler is full of water? I think I'm right in saying that in these circumstances if the boiler is not full of water it will not work. I suspect the same may also apply if the 60 deg water + space heating setting is used without water in the boiler.

If you are having a problem you can determine the nature of that problem from the diagnostic indicator LEDs on the boiler PCB, this is located under a plastic cover mounted on the side of the boiler. In the event of a failure a red LED on that PCB will repeatedly flash a code of dots and dashes. If you make a note of the code and contact Truma they will tell you why the boiler has failed. If your "engineer" isn't aware of this procedure then the best plan is to use a different engineer as he obviously knows nothing about Truma boilers.
 
#10 ·
Having a gas supply at the stove does not rule out a problem with the gas supply, a common fault is the gas regulator not supplying enough gas to run a 6kw heater
You could make some checks as follows
1. Run the heater on the water heating setting only. If the boiler runs the regulator is suspect
2. To further prove the on board fitted regulator connect a propane bottle and regulator to the system using a rubber hose and hose clip
If the boiler runs on the heating setting replace the regulator
Hope this helps and saves a lot of expense
 
#13 ·
Hi Adria123
Not familiar with your vehicle but on my Kontiki in one of the cupboards under the sink, there are 3 Gas control knobs for the Cooker, Fridge and Boiler so they can be isolated if needed.
If you have these check that one of them (The Boiler) is not in the off position, these switches can easily be knocked off when putting things in the cupboard so worth checking.

jdkontiki
 
#14 ·
HI.

It happened to me the other weekend when the weather turned really cold, I thought the gas had run out but on shaking the gas bottle It was sloshing around inside, I took off the regulator and blew a bit of gas out to see if it was OK, it gave a tiny splutter initially then came out full force..
I can only think it was a bit of ice through some moisture that had frozen to stop the flow. once connected every thing started to work.. Like you the cooker supply seemed OK..

The only thing I can put it down to when it started to work is a miracle. :lol: :lol: :lol:

ray.
 
#15 ·
#16 ·
We have the same heater and I have experienced the heater not firing up when the gas bottle is almost empty. On both occasions a change to a full bottle sorted the problem.

Also, when it has not been used for a while, the red light will come on and the heater will not fire up. Turning it on/off a couple of times has always resulted in the heater starting.

I find the summer/winter terminology confusing. Turning the switch one click clockwise is heating only, two clicks is heating and water at 60 degrees. Turning the switch anticlockwise is water only, the first click is water heated to 40 degrees, the second click water heated to 60 degrees.

Hope this helps :)
 
#17 ·
I could understand it if the MH had in exces of 70,000 miles on the clock to start buying new parts for the boiler but it's only done 12000 miles,

Do these boilers have a lot of problems?.

I already have the manual for the boiler and it doesn't really say much about the faults as such,

I don't think anything comes out of the exhaust,

The gas bottle is full, come to think of it when i were using the hob and grill the grill kept going out could this be something to do white a gas blockage/problem
 
#18 ·
adria123 said:
I could understand it if the MH had in exces of 70,000 miles on the clock to start buying new parts for the boiler but it's only done 12000 miles,

Do these boilers have a lot of problems?.

I already have the manual for the boiler and it doesn't really say much about the faults as such,

I don't think anything comes out of the exhaust,

The gas bottle is full, come to think of it when i were using the hob and grill the grill kept going out could this be something to do white a gas blockage/problem
Hi.

Take it for a gas service and get it checked out they will know what is happening and sort it..

ray.
 
#20 ·
adria123 said:
I could understand it if the MH had in exces of 70,000 miles on the clock to start buying new parts for the boiler but it's only done 12000 miles,

Do these boilers have a lot of problems?.

I already have the manual for the boiler and it doesn't really say much about the faults as such,

I don't think anything comes out of the exhaust,

The gas bottle is full, come to think of it when i were using the hob and grill the grill kept going out could this be something to do white a gas blockage/problem
Start at Begining !!

What gas you using, Butane, or Propane ?
 
#23 ·
Hi,

We have had this problem on several occasions; when the weather has been foul and we haven't used it for a few days (or weeks).

We are fortunate to also have the electric element on our boiler and when the van has been laid up in damp weather, I check the gas ignition before going away. If it won't ignite; the same things happen as in your case; and I run the heater on electric for a while to 'dry out' the electrics. This seems to work for us.

Perhaps if electricity is available you could use a hairdrier around the area of the PCB etc in case of damp or moisture affecting its operation.

Regards,
Steve
 
#24 ·
Roger7webster said:
yes it is safe and recommended in the truma instructions to run the heater without water
Yes, that's quite true, you can run the heating with no water in the boiler. However, the way I read the O/P was that the poster may be trying to run the boiler in "60 deg hot water only" mode (ie no space heating) without water in the boiler.

Regulator problems are a distinct possibility on that age of installation, especially if it's a Truma regulator. A simple pressure test may not show up the fault as the problem would only be evident with a high flow rate such as when the boiler was in use.
 
#26 ·
Hi Adria123

As others have said check your gas regulator it may have a bit of muck in it. Take it off the gas bottle and give it a few taps see if any bits come out of it, then I would try it on another gas bottle if you have one.

The red light failure is usually a gas problem not an electrical problem.

We had same trouble with our old Adria gas was lighting the cooker rings but wouldn't light the boiler or fridge in the end we bought a new regulator. Problem solved :D

Jacquie
 
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