Not sure if this is the right area to post this but anyway, I have a adria 3 berth MH on a 2006 fiat ducato that I am having trouble getting my boiler to work,
The combi boiler is a truma C 6002 which does both, hot water and heating,
When I turn the truma thermostat to the winter setting 60 degrees the green light comes on with the amber, but after a couple of minutes the amber light goes out and a red light comes on,
I can hear a clicking noise when I first turn the dial on then to 60 degrees and then a louder click and then nothing, the same happens when I turn the dial on to summer setting 40-60 degrees,
I have contacted a number of people from the truma website,
The first person I contacted said it could be the PCB board which would cost over £200+, and that there was no real way to test this part to see if it was even broken, he also told me that if he rang Truma they would just say start with fitting a new PCB board and then go through all the parts, by that time I would be well into £1000+
Another person I contacted said he could test the PCB board and then go through all the other parts to find out what was broken,
I then called another engineer just for piece of mind and he told me that he could test the circuit board to see if it had any broken bits on it and if so he could replace the broken part on the PCB board,
Not sure which road to go down or do I just scrap the boiler and fit a new one??
In an earlier post you asked how to test the regulator
Can I suggest you buy a bog standard propane regulator (cost approx £6) from any camping shop
connect to the low pressure side of the existing regulator using as already advised a hose and hose clip
This is now your replacement regulator and will prove that the gas supply is correct if the boiler fires.
This must be your first move because it is the most common fault with these boilers.
Don't be distracted by other well meaning advice until you have established this most basic requirement.
Good luck
Roger
"If it was the regulator the hob and oven wouldnt work because of reduced gas flow"
Don't bet on it! I had a similar problem. It got worse and worse until the boiler would not light, although the hob, oven and fridge all worked fine (at the same time.)
I removed the regulator and "rubber pig tail" and found both full of a smelly yellow liquid residue. After blowing through all the gas pipes with a compressed air line, i replaced both regulator and pig tail, the boiler sparked up first time.
As mine is an old Hymer, it was designed for, and all the gas appliances were jetted for a 50mbar regular. I ditched the expensive 30mbar Truma regulator someone had fitted with a much cheaper 50mbar Gok regulator, and have no problems since.
I read up to last night, and just looked in again now.... no one seems to have asked one question
You have just brought it, did you buy from a dealer - if so - go back and get them to sort it..
If not then as Bryan (the snail) said, go to the factory, and get it fixed, especially if you don't feel capable of following some of the suggestions on here.
I read up to last night, and just looked in again now.... no one seems to have asked one question
You have just brought it, did you buy from a dealer - if so - go back and get them to sort it..
If not then as Bryan (the snail) said, go to the factory, and get it fixed, especially if you don't feel capable of following some of the suggestions on here.
In an earlier post you asked how to test the regulator
Can I suggest you buy a bog standard propane regulator (cost approx £6) from any camping shop
connect to the low pressure side of the existing regulator using as already advised a hose and hose clip
This is now your replacement regulator and will prove that the gas supply is correct if the boiler fires.
This must be your first move because it is the most common fault with these boilers.
Don't be distracted by other well meaning advice until you have established this most basic requirement.
Good luck
Roger
Trace the pipe from the bottle to the regulator, This is the high pressure side
the pipe coming from the other side will be the low pressure side and will supply your fridge, boiler etc
I had a similar fault with my Truma C6002EH boiler in my 2007 Hymer. When switched on it would click, not fire up and after 30 seconds the red light would come on and shut down. Contacted Truma at Burton who would not deal with the public direct and informed me to contact a Truma agent which I did. The mobile engineer did various checks ie: gas, electric etc. Mine was an intermittent fault which failed more often than not. He decided that because it was an intermittent fault to take the boiler out and send it to Truma at Burton. Following tests they diagnosed a faulty PCB which they replaced and returned the boiler to my engineer who then came out and refitted it. The cost to for the Truma engineer to come to my home twice, remove, package, shipment to and from Truma, testing and fitting new PCB at Truma and refitting of boiler back into my motor home by the engineer - total cost £438.00.
I was going to try a different regulator but I can't match up the fittings. The thread on the alternative regulator isn't long enough and won't attach safely to the Securmotion.
No worries though 'cause I've realised that my warranty should cover the problem. As the company I purchased the van from is over 400km from my home I'm trying to persuade them that I can organise the repair via a local agent and pass the invoice to on to them.
When I eventually find out what part has failed I'll let you know.
I was going to try a different regulator but I can't match up the fittings. The thread on the alternative regulator isn't long enough and won't attach safely to the Securmotion.
No worries though 'cause I've realised that my warranty should cover the problem. As the company I purchased the van from is over 400km from my home I'm trying to persuade them that I can organise the repair via a local agent and pass the invoice to on to them.
When I eventually find out what part has failed I'll let you know.
I was going to try a different regulator but I can't match up the fittings. The thread on the alternative regulator isn't long enough and won't attach safely to the Securmotion.
No worries though 'cause I've realised that my warranty should cover the problem. As the company I purchased the van from is over 400km from my home I'm trying to persuade them that I can organise the repair via a local agent and pass the invoice to on to them.
When I eventually find out what part has failed I'll let you know.
Must depend on the dealer, as the company I bought the Frankia from (TPL part of the Narbonne Accessories group) covered the warranty themselves, very efficiently and without question. I had an exhaust pipe break whilst in the South and a quick call to them (in Rennes) told me to go to the nearest Fiat agent and get it fixed and when booking the job in to give the Sales Managers details to the Fiat agent and they would deal with it, which they did. Later in the year the clutch started to slip and a quick call saw the van booked into a main agent near to home and a new clutch fitted, no questions or cost to me.
When I purchased it I enquired what was covered by the warranty and the reply was "everything of course".
I had a problem last weekend, when the Truma gas heater fired up the hob went out. I replaced the Truma Securmotion regulator with a Gaslow and it didn't solve the problem. 8O. I removed the Gaslow low level indicator gauge and cured the fault.
A lot of oil came out of the Truma regulator so I'm sure it would soon have failed.
Hope this could help someone with the same problem.
Just had same problem on C6002 fan would not go onto top speed on heating just waggled wires on the board and off it went. It would not work for two months. Nother miracle.
I had similar problems and changed the gas regulator and hey presto works fine now.
I was very sceptical that the change would make a difference as all my other appliances were working fine.
Give it a try
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