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Newbie with truma 6002 problems

31K views 71 replies 33 participants last post by  Jaks101 
#1 ·
Hi,

Not sure if this is the right area to post this but anyway, I have a adria 3 berth MH on a 2006 fiat ducato that I am having trouble getting my boiler to work,

The combi boiler is a truma C 6002 which does both, hot water and heating,

When I turn the truma thermostat to the winter setting 60 degrees the green light comes on with the amber, but after a couple of minutes the amber light goes out and a red light comes on,

I can hear a clicking noise when I first turn the dial on then to 60 degrees and then a louder click and then nothing, the same happens when I turn the dial on to summer setting 40-60 degrees,

I have contacted a number of people from the truma website,

The first person I contacted said it could be the PCB board which would cost over £200+, and that there was no real way to test this part to see if it was even broken, he also told me that if he rang Truma they would just say start with fitting a new PCB board and then go through all the parts, by that time I would be well into £1000+

Another person I contacted said he could test the PCB board and then go through all the other parts to find out what was broken,

I then called another engineer just for piece of mind and he told me that he could test the circuit board to see if it had any broken bits on it and if so he could replace the broken part on the PCB board,

Not sure which road to go down or do I just scrap the boiler and fit a new one??

Any help would be much appreciated,
Ab
 
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#29 ·
adria123 said:
If the red light failure is usually a gas problem not an electrical problem should the three engineers that I called of known this?
You can get the red light on both electrical and gas related failures. Anyway, didn't you say that yours was gas only, not gas/elec?
 
#32 ·
peejay said:
I've had a similar problem.

Light a few burners on the hob, now try and start up the Boiler, if the flames on the hob lower during the process it points to problems with the gas supply, more than likely a regulator problem.

Its happened to quite a few with Truma regulators, we always carry a spare regulator now.

Pete
Yes I've tried that aswell, I lit all the burners on the hob lit the grill and tried the boiler but the flames on grill/hob were ok.
 
#35 ·
before we go around in circles, can we recap please. It is a gas only Truma 6002. you are having trouble getting it to work,you have tried having the hob rings alight at the same time to see if the flame dies when trying the truma, but there is no difference in the hob flames.
You get a click when you first switch it on and you get the green and amber lights, then another click and the red light comes on.
have you tried starting it in heating only mode,
have you actually got water in the boiler,you have checked that the gas isolator switch is allowing gas to get to the boiler. you have checked that you have gas, and you have checked the voltage on the battery is above the required level, normally you need at least 10.6volts, but aim for 11v.have you turned off all other 12v electrics in the van.are you on hookup to boost the battery in case it is needed.
lastly I do hope that you have made sure that the dump valve is closed properly.
I will sit and await your response.

cabby
 
#36 ·
The red light is normally an indication of burner failure, the clicking mentioned will be the gas solenoid valve operating.
When first turned to operate either space or water heating the electronics contained within the PCB carry out a series of checks in a similar manner to the controller on your domestic central heating boiler does, when it confirms that it has all of the inputs it requires it will operate the gas solenoid (the click) and at the same time operate the igniter system, if all is well the burner will ignite and the flame sensor will tell the PCB controller that all is well and the unit will continue to operate at the settings you have chosen.
My suggestion is that for any one of a few reasons the burner either fails to light at all or to operate at a level sufficient to switch the flame failure device to safe and therefore closes the solenoid valve (second click) and the controller shows a red light.
There have been several misleading replies here, the most bizarre is the not on a level surface? probably confused with early gas fridges which were not tilt tolerant although this had nothing to do with the gas side of things.
One of the replies did inform you of the self diagnosis that the PCB does and reports via a flashing red diode, check that and then contact a proper Truma engineer (or the importers) for an effective diagnosis.
 
#37 ·
cabby said:
before we go around in circles, can we recap please. It is a gas only Truma 6002. you are having trouble getting it to work,you have tried having the hob rings alight at the same time to see if the flame dies when trying the truma, but there is no difference in the hob flames.
You get a click when you first switch it on and you get the green and amber lights, then another click and the red light comes on.
have you tried starting it in heating only mode,
have you actually got water in the boiler,you have checked that the gas isolator switch is allowing gas to get to the boiler. you have checked that you have gas, and you have checked the voltage on the battery is above the required level, normally you need at least 10.6volts, but aim for 11v.have you turned off all other 12v electrics in the van.are you on hookup to boost the battery in case it is needed.
lastly I do hope that you have made sure that the dump valve is closed properly.
I will sit and await your response.

cabby
Hi Cabby,

Yes I have done all that, I will keep you informed
 
#38 ·
eurajohn said:
The red light is normally an indication of burner failure, the clicking mentioned will be the gas solenoid valve operating.
When first turned to operate either space or water heating the electronics contained within the PCB carry out a series of checks in a similar manner to the controller on your domestic central heating boiler does, when it confirms that it has all of the inputs it requires it will operate the gas solenoid (the click) and at the same time operate the igniter system, if all is well the burner will ignite and the flame sensor will tell the PCB controller that all is well and the unit will continue to operate at the settings you have chosen.
My suggestion is that for any one of a few reasons the burner either fails to light at all or to operate at a level sufficient to switch the flame failure device to safe and therefore closes the solenoid valve (second click) and the controller shows a red light.
There have been several misleading replies here, the most bizarre is the not on a level surface? probably confused with early gas fridges which were not tilt tolerant although this had nothing to do with the gas side of things.
One of the replies did inform you of the self diagnosis that the PCB does and reports via a flashing red diode, check that and then contact a proper Truma engineer (or the importers) for an effective diagnosis.
Hi John,

Many thanks for this reply.
 
#43 ·
adria123 said:
Would I be better just to send the PCB board to truma and let them test it before I go out and start buying any parts?
That would be an option but not foolproof. I would be surprised if it was the board at fault, more likely it's due to some other issue.

eurajohns reply is absolutely correct, you need to eliminate all the factors that may cause the gas valve to close before you can assume a PCB problem.

The most common problem is undoubtably regulator failure or some other gas supply related problem and you ned to eliminate these first. The Truma regulators fail gradually as the rubber valve seal swells and the gas supply won't simply cut off, it'll just become restricted and will have no effect until a high gas flow is called for. Either low gas level or regulator (or hose) restriction would be my first port of call.
Also you may think your gas bottle is full but it's worth changing the bottle if you have a spare just to be sure, bottles with low gas levels will cause this sort of problem all the time.

Unfortunately I can't recommend a gas expert in Yorkshire but I'm sure there are others here who can.
 
#44 ·
gaspode said:
adria123 said:
Would I be better just to send the PCB board to truma and let them test it before I go out and start buying any parts?
That would be an option but not foolproof. I would be surprised if it was the board at fault, more likely it's due to some other issue.

eurajohns reply is absolutely correct, you need to eliminate all the factors that may cause the gas valve to close before you can assume a PCB problem.

The most common problem is undoubtably regulator failure or some other gas supply related problem and you ned to eliminate these first. The Truma regulators fail gradually as the rubber valve seal swells and the gas supply won't simply cut off, it'll just become restricted and will have no effect until a high gas flow is called for. Either low gas level or regulator (or hose) restriction would be my first port of call.
Also you may think your gas bottle is full but it's worth changing the bottle if you have a spare just to be sure, bottles with low gas levels will cause this sort of problem all the time.

Unfortunately I can't recommend a gas expert in Yorkshire but I'm sure there are others here who can.
Thanks for your reply,

The gas bottle is full I will check the regulator and report back.
 
#45 ·
gaspode said:
adria123 said:
Would I be better just to send the PCB board to truma and let them test it before I go out and start buying any parts?
That would be an option but not foolproof. I would be surprised if it was the board at fault, more likely it's due to some other issue.

eurajohns reply is absolutely correct, you need to eliminate all the factors that may cause the gas valve to close before you can assume a PCB problem.

The most common problem is undoubtably regulator failure or some other gas supply related problem and you ned to eliminate these first. The Truma regulators fail gradually as the rubber valve seal swells and the gas supply won't simply cut off, it'll just become restricted and will have no effect until a high gas flow is called for. Either low gas level or regulator (or hose) restriction would be my first port of call.
Also you may think your gas bottle is full but it's worth changing the bottle if you have a spare just to be sure, bottles with low gas levels will cause this sort of problem all the time.

Unfortunately I can't recommend a gas expert in Yorkshire but I'm sure there are others here who can.
Does it have to be a Truma regulator and what would be the best way to check regulator? Turn hob, grill, fridge on and then boiler water/heater on. Or is there another way I can test regulator?
 
#46 ·
adria123 said:
Does it have to be a Truma regulator and what would be the best way to check regulator? Turn hob, grill, fridge on and then boiler water/heater on. Or is there another way I can test regulator?
It could be several makes of regulator that is fitted, any one of them could fail but reports here suggest that the Truma ones have proved especially prone to failure so if it's a Truma I would be more suspicious. Also the high pressure pigtails can swell internally due to contamination from oily residues in the LPG softening the rubber core. This causes a restriction (like artery disease) to the gas flow.

Detecting reduced gas flow is not that simple until it becomes almost terminal. As others have stated, best way is to get as much gas flowing as possible and observe if the size of flame reduces slightly as more demand is made on the gas supply. There should be no observable reduction in flame size as demand increases if the regulator is working OK and the hoses are good.

And I would still try a different gas bottle if you have one, plenty of members here will tell you they've been convinced a bottle was full when it wasn't.

May also be worth checking that there are no obstructions (insects, leaves etc.) stuck in the flue and air intakes as this will cause the symptoms you describe.
 
#48 ·
Morning all,


I,ll bet a fiver its the regulator. You could try autogas 2000 up near thirsk. They are truma dealers .

My regulator has croaked again after less than a year , this is why they now supply a filter system at about £75 + a replacement filter @ £37. I have been having similar problems to you so this time I am going for the gaslow regulator.


norm
 
#49 ·
Truma boiler repair

Don't know if this is any use but when i had trouble with my boiler, after trying several attempts to repair it by so called experts I took it to the factory where they have a dedicated repair shop.

It took about about an hour to repair the boiler (a burnt out mains fuse holder)
Best part no charge even though the van was out of guarantee

Bryan
 
#51 ·
Re: Truma boiler repair

thesnail said:
Don't know if this is any use but when i had trouble with my boiler, after trying several attempts to repair it by so called experts I took it to the factory where they have a dedicated repair shop.

It took about about an hour to repair the boiler (a burnt out mains fuse holder)
Best part no charge even though the van was out of guarantee

Bryan
Hi,

Where abouts did you take your camper to, was it a Truma dealer?
 
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