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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 23-10-2013, 16:41 Thread Starter
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Dometic fridge on full power

Our RM 7605L Fridge freezer knob seems to be broken as all the lights are on and freezing up, good for beer but not nice for tomatoes, tried everything to no avail & luckily staff at Laguna Playa Torre Del Mar directed me to Auto-Star Caravanas Almayate. On Friday taking our "Mo" there as the Dometic chap Niko is here from Granada so all being well will be fixed.
MB & G warranty were not very helpful as we are in Spain so will wait to see how much to fix. They need a phone call to say yes or no but not very helpful when you wait over half an hour for them to answer as they insist the repairer telephones so can't see that happening.

Watch this space for update
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 23-10-2013, 17:18
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We have had 2 snap, very poor design.

Should only take 5 minutes to repair.

When repaired set and try not to touch again.
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 23-10-2013, 18:47
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Pull it off, fill your knobs shaft hole with Araldite and put it back on in the correct position for the way it is set at the moment and leave it for a day or two, then it should be fixed for good, I've had to do 4 knobs now, but once fixed they stay fixed.

TB, behave, and the rest of you.
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 28-10-2013, 14:36 Thread Starter
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Fridge knob

Fixed, tried to glue but lights still all on so took "Mo" to Caravans Auto Star in Almayate 3km from Torre del Mar. Dometic & Truma fixers, took half an hour only 18 Euro with tax, happy, snapped at the back beyond the spindle
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 28-10-2013, 22:05
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kev_n_Liz
Pull it off, fill your knobs shaft hole with Araldite and put it back on in the correct position for the way it is set at the moment and leave it for a day or two, then it should be fixed for good, I've had to do 4 knobs now, but once fixed they stay fixed.

TB, behave, and the rest of you.

Behave? Moi? Oohlala!
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 29-10-2013, 10:22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tugboat
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kev_n_Liz
Pull it off, fill your knobs shaft hole with Araldite and put it back on in the correct position for the way it is set at the moment and leave it for a day or two, then it should be fixed for good, I've had to do 4 knobs now, but once fixed they stay fixed.

TB, behave, and the rest of you.

Behave? Moi? Oohlala!
I should have said DON'T overfill the shaft hole as it's ooze out everywhere and might actually jam in one position, which is not good.

You need just enough to account for the wear, I had to do on eat home last year, and I opened it up with drill to allow more Araldite in and make it strongerer, it's still fine, but standard Araldite works better than Rapid for some reason, it just needs to be supported til it goes orf.
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 26-03-2015, 10:15
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Sorry to tag onto the end of this thread but since the new layout I can't see how to start a new thread!
I have a Dometic RM 7605 L AES fridge with a 12volt heating element fed by two hefty wires which are connected to it via a connecting block.
I was hoping to take a 12volt feed from this to power a 12v TV via a din socket, I checked that I was getting 12v at the connecting block and all ok but after I connected the wires from the din socket there was only 0.6 volts at the block! I disconnected the din socket but still only 0.6 volts at the block.
The van is on hook up with the fridge turned off, my question is, should there be a permanent 12v feed to the heating element when the engine is not running or was this caused by a sticky relay that released whilst I was fiddling about?
Help with this would be much appreciated.
Mel.

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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 26-03-2015, 10:55
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Originally Posted by Baron1 View Post
Sorry to tag onto the end of this thread but since the new layout I can't see how to start a new thread!
I have a Dometic RM 7605 L AES fridge with a 12volt heating element fed by two hefty wires which are connected to it via a connecting block.
I was hoping to take a 12volt feed from this to power a 12v TV via a din socket, I checked that I was getting 12v at the connecting block and all ok but after I connected the wires from the din socket there was only 0.6 volts at the block! I disconnected the din socket but still only 0.6 volts at the block.
The van is on hook up with the fridge turned off, my question is, should there be a permanent 12v feed to the heating element when the engine is not running or was this caused by a sticky relay that released whilst I was fiddling about?
Help with this would be much appreciated.
Mel.
As far as I was told, it works like this -

On EHU fridge works on 240v - unplug EHU and you must use gas - Gss must be turned off while travelling - turn on 12v while travelling.

So it wouldn't surprise me if the 12v was interlinked to ignition.
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 26-03-2015, 11:16
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I know that the fridge automatically switches to 12v operation when the engine is running, my question is should there be a permanent 12v feed to the fridge heating element when on hook up?

Time flies like an arrow, fruit flies like a banana.

"Wings, the band the Beatles could have been" - Alan Partridge.

There are eleven types of people in the world, those that understand Roman numerals........and those that donīt.
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 26-03-2015, 11:29
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Yes, there should be a 12v supply to your fridge.

In the good old days there were often two separate feeds to the fridge. One was a permanent 12v feed to run the control side of things and the other was only present whilst the engine was running. This allowed the power hungry 12v element to operate the fridge whilst on the move.

With the latest AES fridges there appears to be just one 12v supply. This runs the control side of things and (when it receives the correct signal from the vehicle alternator) also runs the 12v element when on the move.

I can't find a wiring diagram for your model online but you should have a permanent 12v supply somewhere.

P.S. It won't be feeding the 12v element whilst on hookup as there is a separate 240v element for that but it will still be feeding 12v to the control side.
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