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post #21 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-04-2016, 23:31
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Yes I think the owners background is in furniture so its there best point, they bang on about having no stuck on edging.


There's more to a good van than furniture though.
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post #22 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-04-2016, 16:07 Thread Starter
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HI lgbzone - In reply to your comment how easy it is to treat the cut edge during construction. Ian Hartley told me that they did not treat cut edges as it was not effective, but relied on the bead of sealer applied to the new window squeezing around the opening and sealing the cut bare metal to prevent corrosion. Obviously this did not work in my case. Not being an engineer, what should one use to prevent corrosion of the metal when cutting holes in vehicle bodies. Ironically in this months edition of MMM it does show the conversion of a Sprinter by a reader and mentions treating the cut edges of the new windows, but does not mention what with. Once again thanks to all for your comments.
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post #23 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-04-2016, 17:16
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there are plenty of rust preventer / treatments about

the body of most cars / vans are now fully treated by dipping but even then the body panels have a good zink type coating on them when they come from the roll of steel

when i was a production supervisor for a spot welding machine manufacturer i used to go to a lot of the car plants and the plants were very fussy that the panels were not scratched when handled or welded to the chassis / body before painting

i would note that all the body panel edges are cut from a sheet when stamped out and would leave a untreated edge to the bare steel

and if this was so apart from dipping the body after assembly then why would a coat of anti rust paint not be effective after cutting a hole

yes there is allways the possibility that a small area would be missed and this may rust

i would say that they are not cleaning up the cut edge properly to remove any loose chips of paint and then should add a coat of rust preventer

it seems to me that ian hartley ment it was not COST EFFECTIVE to treat the cut edge




barry
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post #24 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-04-2016, 19:50
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HI lgbzone - In reply to your comment how easy it is to treat the cut edge during construction. Ian Hartley told me that they did not treat cut edges as it was not effective, but relied on the bead of sealer applied to the new window squeezing around the opening and sealing the cut bare metal to prevent corrosion. Obviously this did not work in my case. Not being an engineer, what should one use to prevent corrosion of the metal when cutting holes in vehicle bodies. Ironically in this months edition of MMM it does show the conversion of a Sprinter by a reader and mentions treating the cut edges of the new windows, but does not mention what with. Once again thanks to all for your comments.




Surely Hartley is talking rubbish by saying this, you need to treat the cut edge after the aperture is cut.


Bare metal will rust, mositure will get at it or if the sealant ever fails.


Paul.
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post #25 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-04-2016, 19:58
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i would say that they are not cleaning up the cut edge properly to remove any loose chips of paint and then should add a coat of rust preventer

it seems to me that ian hartley ment it was not COST EFFECTIVE to treat the cut edge

barry
My thoughts entirely, it could take 5 minutes to treat each opening inside and out properly with a small brush, but a small roller would be quick enough.
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post #26 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-04-2016, 23:38
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i think the guys have hit the nails on the heads, there are loads of suitable products available and they don't need to be expensive and takes as long as is required to dip a relatively small brush into a tin and spread it around the lip and inner edge. it's been a long time since i left school when i started working as a mechanic and then panel beater and coach painter (HGVs), but i think back in the day we used to use red lead and etch coats to treat if in a similar situation.

Lee
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post #27 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-04-2016, 06:15
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i think the guys have hit the nails on the heads, there are loads of suitable products available and they don't need to be expensive and takes as long as is required to dip a relatively small brush into a tin and spread it around the lip and inner edge. it's been a long time since i left school when i started working as a mechanic and then panel beater and coach painter (HGVs), but i think back in the day we used to use red lead and etch coats to treat if in a similar situation.

Lee
B&Qs finest red lead went on all my cuts and screw holes, inside and out. To the best of my knowledge silicone sealer does not have a rust inhibitor, it may keep air/water away from a cut edge, but I doubt it would prevent rust for long.
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post #28 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-04-2016, 08:38
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hi kev
dont use normal silicone sealer on metal unless it is a non acetic type, as in does not smell of acid

the acid ones will eat into paint and make it rust

barry
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post #29 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-04-2016, 08:48
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hi kev
dont use normal silicone sealer on metal unless it is a non acetic type, as in does not smell of acid

the acid ones will eat into paint and make it rust

barry
That explains a lot, but I'd never do it anyway.
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