How to replace the X250 Diesel fuel filter. Part II - Motorhome Forums, Motorhome Discussion, Motorhome Chat

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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-03-2014, 15:00 Thread Starter
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How to replace the X250 Diesel fuel filter. Part II

Diesel fuel filter replacement on X250
Link to part I

The housing postioned in the essential tool mounted gently in a vice

The securing ring removed anticlockwise with half inch drive ratchet.

Housing cap now lifted off

Filter rotate and pull to remove

New filter insert and rotate anticlockwise

Seal shown hanging

Position seal

Replace top cap with respect to correct position of inlet outlet, taking a photo or marking postion before dismantling is a good idea
refit securing ring and assembly tool and tighten to 30nm

Tool document
http://www.partinfo.co.uk/files/ADK85502.pdf

Can be sourced for sub 18 delivered

It is inconceivable that the housing can be damaged and leak if this tool is used.

Andy
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-03-2014, 21:30
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A great aid Andy for anyone contemplating having a go themselves.

A couple of things, the location of the filter on our 2008 2.3 Ducato is so less cluttered than on your motorhome!

Certainly no need to remove the headlight and the only things I did move were the windscreen scuttle drains that I'd fitted just a few weeks previously!

Secondly, the top and bottom of the filter housing are pre marked to assist with correct assembly. These yellow marks are shown in your very clear photos.

I would also agree with your view that, by using the correct assembly tool on an undamaged housing, it is extremely unlikely that there will be further problems.

I'm surprised that other owners have had repeated problems and can only assume that they have persisted with the original filter which I suspect may have been damaged in some way. That was the problem in my case in that the inlet connector was at fault.

David
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-06-2014, 23:11 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidjlambert
A great aid Andy for anyone contemplating having a go themselves.

A couple of things, the location of the filter on our 2008 2.3 Ducato is so less cluttered than on your motorhome!

Certainly no need to remove the headlight and the only things I did move were the windscreen scuttle drains that I'd fitted just a few weeks previously!

Secondly, the top and bottom of the filter housing are pre marked to assist with correct assembly. These yellow marks are shown in your very clear photos.

I would also agree with your view that, by using the correct assembly tool on an undamaged housing, it is extremely unlikely that there will be further problems.

I'm surprised that other owners have had repeated problems and can only assume that they have persisted with the original filter which I suspect may have been damaged in some way. That was the problem in my case in that the inlet connector was at fault.

David
Yes David you are correct about access. The reason mine is so cluttered is because it is left hand drive and thus quite different.

I posted this on the French Rapido forum and they took it as normal
They had translated it to FRENCH within half an hour of me submitting it

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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-06-2014, 23:43
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Andy - does the system self prime and is it a case of just turning the engine over until fuel is drawn into the filter? Or did you fill the filter housing with derv prior to refitting it?
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-06-2014, 23:54 Thread Starter
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Self priming.
Best modus operandi is turn it over 5 seconds PAUSE then another 5 seconds, it should fire up half way through the second burst or sooner

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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-06-2014, 08:35
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Sorry, but why turn the engine over before the filter has been purged by the low pressure fuel pump and checked for leaks? That just risks getting air into the high pressure side which, although also self-bleeding, is not a good idea and definately not good for the HP pump or injectors.

Correct modus operandi in my opinion is;
- turn on the ignition and wait for the audible low pressure pump to stop, indicating that the filter is now full and bled and low pressure side is pressurized.
- thoroughly check filter for leaks
- only if all OK then turn over and start engine.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-06-2014, 08:48 Thread Starter
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Where were you when I needed you

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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-06-2014, 10:13
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Had my filter changed by Peugeot fitter earlier this year and all he did was remove the screw cap of the filter housing in situ without removing the filter body, replaced with new filter and seal, tightened back up and job done. He used the "bike chain" technical term tool to undo the top.

This was on a 3.0 litre Peugeot Boxer 2010 model.

Keith

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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-06-2014, 10:29 Thread Starter
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Best keep an eye on it then as many leaks occur some time later. A chain whip is not the correct method and there is no way of knowing the tightening torque.

Andy
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-06-2014, 10:42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Techno100
Best keep an eye on it then as many leaks occur some time later. A chain whip is not the correct method and there is no way of knowing the tightening torque.
Good advice, will watch out for leaks and should any occur, relate this to Peugeot fitters and see what their response is.

Thank you

Keith

Do unto others as they do unto you,and then **** off before the law arrives.

There are only 3 things in this world worth a solitary dime, thats old dogs, and children and watermelon wine. (Tom T Hall)
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