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post #31 of 35 (permalink) Old 30-07-2021, 07:42
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My feeling is as the fridge is pretty much a stand alone device that that is one problem and the control panel could be causing the others, he did of course check all the fuses.


I think you can still buy the control panels new for about 140


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post #32 of 35 (permalink) Old 30-07-2021, 09:00
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Could it not be reconditioned at less cost ?

The fridge is more or less stand alone but it still depends on the 12v supply and I suspect the wiring pattern of the MH with the Canbus system and D+ and D- elements so there MAY be some dependency on the Control panel ?

Any typo that I make means the errorists win.

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post #33 of 35 (permalink) Old 30-07-2021, 09:36
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There is 12v to my fridge Dave or it couldn't light. and the Canbus is only connected to the actual van's electrics as far as I know, not the hab except where it draws power of course, but as it's an 07 it's early days for connectivity then.


I did query new parts but the earlier ones are not really repairable beyond the parts fastened to them like igniters, switches, and valves.


Not sure if I mentioned it as I've commented on two threads, but he thinks it is a blockage in the thick tubes at the back which is always terminal, we may have to bite the bullet and buy new, not that there seem to be any more reliable, but are more repairable.
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post #34 of 35 (permalink) Old 30-07-2021, 09:56 Thread Starter
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I'm no expert, just managed to live with our fridge for 15yrs without calling a technician. My knowledge is specific to our fridge. I think that your van is being looked at so the following does not really apply but it might be useful to others.



I guess your fridge and van is more sophistcated than our 19yr old van.
You appear to have several faults.
240 v heater working but no cooling, has the fridge a coolant leak (assumed absorption fridge)?
I think you are saying that the fridge does not work on 12v but the burner lights and then goes out. The ignition needs 12v so the fridge has a 12v supply.

From my experience this leads to a burner check/clean and a nozzle inspection, a very tiny hole that is easily blocked. Check electrode and thermocouple positions and look for a good spark.

Then it could be the thermocouple, I would say doutful, I've bought three in the past and none of them have proved to be faulty.
The voltage output is very small so a good clean connection at the gas valve is needed.

Once the burner is lit, in our case the fridge does not need 12v in gas mode.

If the fridge does not work on 12v energy, does the heater/ flue get warm? If so then back to 240v fault.
Best of luck with the fridge.
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post #35 of 35 (permalink) Old 30-07-2021, 10:36
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Thanks Boris,

I've had about 10 vans in the last ten years give or take, and almost every one has had a fridge problem, and I have managed to fix them all bar one where it was up for sale and I just told them it wasn't working and we negotiated, we would only use the 230v at home to precool the fridge, we have never used the 12v as we normally run on gas and just turn it of in petrol stations.

the odd thing with the 230v is it worked last time i had it on, so why not now, it heats up okay, but the cooling circuit is only warm in one place, this will be where it's blocked, as for the gas this could be just the thermocouple, but we need to know for sure that the rest is okay before messing with that so we're just going to let the man who can do it, I'm not up to the buggering about involved these days, unfortunately.
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