The perennial issue. 3 way fridge not working on gas! - Motorhome Forums, Motorhome Discussion, Motorhome Chat

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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 11:00 Thread Starter
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The perennial issue. 3 way fridge not working on gas!

RE:Hymer B574 2002 Electrolux Fridge RM6201L does not work on gas. Hopefully there will be someone out there with some words of wisdom. As brief as I can make it, this is the problem. On releasing the push-in knob the ignition light would reappear after first going out. Research suggested the most common problem was with the burner, burner assembly was replaced.
The burner lights and the thermocouple is correctly positioned. No Cure Thermocouple replaced no fix. Decided to remove fridge for full investigation, realised this was a daunting job so settled for withdrawing it 6in which allows access to most of the vitals. No gas supply at this stage. Thermocouple (x 3) tested, all produce approx.30mvolt when blow torch applied. I believe this to be in order, The situation now is that the burner lights but the ignition system continues even after heat application. My thinking is that the thermocouple output operates the gas valve and also causes the ignition to cease; however neither happens. So is it the gas valve that is faulty? There are two wires connected to the gas valve, I suspect that these signal, via the switch box, to the ignited to stop on the required output from the thermocouple. I have looked at the voltage on these terminals and they are exactly the same as the thermocouple output, ie. climb to 30mv on application of heat to the thermocouple. So when the thermocouple outputs 30mv why does the ignited not cease and why does the gas valve not operate?

Do I buy a new switch box? £63
Do I buy a new control valve? £200 ouch!
Do I call in an expert?

Any suggestions gratefully received.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 11:26
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Got a similar issue on my van, fridge lights and works as normal but for the igniter to continue to spark, my simple short term cure is to let it fire up then remove the earth wire from the igniter, I will eventually replace the igniter.

Before spending £200, call in a mobile tech man.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 12:43
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I think it's been posted here before, but we found after cleaning all the gas jets etc still not operating.

The tip on here was a sharp rap on the gas valve to free up the solenoid and it started working for us anyway.

Don't think about £200 when you hit it, as I think that might be too hard
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 15:42
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We had that problem and it WAS the control valve which has numerous connections which wear with age.

Only solution is a new valve, ours cost 230€ fitted.

We had it diagnosed and replaced by a professional, interestingly the design has changed since our 2003 model was built, just a bit but the connections are different, I wonder whether this was an attempt to stop the failure through age problem....

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 15-11-2019, 17:30
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Yet another question asker who cannot be arsed to come back and thank those who have bothered to answer, or even update us. I know I have said it before but......

Manners cost nothing.

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 22-11-2019, 19:18 Thread Starter
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The investigation continues now the van is off the road for the winter. I'll try and attach a file to help with issue.
There appear to be 4 components in the control system. The Control Switch, the Gas Valve and the Spark Generator not forgetting the Thermocouple.

I've removed the control switch, examined & tested it. It is a simple contact making switch box and contains nothing else. I'm in the dark re the two wires that come from the gas valve and goes to the Control Switch only to be shorted together on gas. Another mystery yet to be explained is how the Spark Generator ceases once the thermocouple voltage is generated. The diagram attached does not appear to show a method. The issue WILL be solved, maybe expensively with a new Gas Valve and a trained Gas Man, I'll let you know.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Control Switch.pdf (418.0 KB, 7 views)
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 22-11-2019, 19:49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrplodd View Post
Yet another question asker who cannot be arsed to come back and thank those who have bothered to answer, or even update us. I know I have said it before but......

Manners cost nothing.

Andy

Just have patience Andy and Webby, not everybody can have the time to be on social media everyday.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 23-11-2019, 10:00 Thread Starter
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An overnight thought.

Switch contacts 6a & 6b (these are connected by wires to connectors on the Gas Valve) are made in gas mode to pass the thermocouple current to the gas valve. This will prevent the gas valve operating in any other mode and I presume a safety feature.

I need to understand the mechanism that stops the ignition once the gas is lit.
The more I probe the more I suspect the Valve.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 23-11-2019, 18:52
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I would assume that the thermocouple serves two purposes, keeps the gas flowing whilst heat is applied to it AND cuts off the ignition at the same time. Could be wrong of course.

Andy

Its not the destination that matters.

It's who you share the journey with (even if like me, it’s in a caravan!)
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 25-11-2019, 10:19 Thread Starter
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Yes I think you are right.
Once the thermocouple generates sufficient current the gas solenoid will be held in when the knob is released and the sparking should cease. However looking at the diagram attached in a previous post, I cannot workout the mechanism for stopping the spark generator. It has a feed of 12v from the switch and no obvious means of interruption, the earth is a solid connection. I dismantled to switch for a second time for a visual inspection followed by a continuity test and there are no fancy connections within, it just simply connects a to b connections (x 6 ) the combination depends on the switch position.

Having remade virtually all connections I'll reconnect the fridge and check the status, not hopeful.
I tried the heavy clout on the valve as suggested early, that may have achieved something.
I contacted a caravan gas engineer and he declined to attend saying money would be better spent on replacing the board, none exists in this model. He also said that is his experience gas valve failures were very rare.
Apologies for the length of posts
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