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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 28-06-2018, 09:29 Thread Starter
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05 Citreon relay bonded window retro fit

Hey everyone .

I'm about to enbark in converting my recently sprayed van into a camper , Im starting with bonded windows and roof vents .

I recently bought two larger bonded windows from a disabled access vehicle company , they are actually made for an Iveco daily van but they fit the profile of the Relay
and they are a really good quality window . It's not an ideal situation but finding a sliding window for this year van at a reasonable price was nearly impossible so I'm hoping to make it work .

I have spoke with the manufacturer and the glass guys who will bond them and they both seem happy that if I can cut the hole out correctly that the glass with bond and fit very well .

My question today is about the loading door . It seems that for the sliding frame on the glass to fit I will have to cut out side of the aperture and into some of the metal work that looks a little more structurally important than
the rest of the panel . I have up loaded images of what I mean , And a picture of the van .

I would only be cutting out maybe a 3cm x 5cm hole in these parts but im just trying to work out if im going to sabotage the strength of the van if i do so .

Any help and advice is welcome .
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 28-06-2018, 09:38
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I'm not sure cutting those out is a good idea, reason being that model (I think) never had bonded windows, so the structure wasn't designed to accommodate them like the later model was, the only part I would chance removing would be the central horizontal bracing bar as this is primarily just for anti drum.

There is another issue though with the bonded windows and why most self builders don't use them, no insulation value, so they produce condensation, most will opt for Seitz S4 or re-use windows from caravan breakers as they are insulated, insulation is a big issue in all self builds.

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 28-06-2018, 09:54 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kev_n_Liz View Post
I'm not sure cutting those out is a good idea, reason being that model (I think) never had bonded windows, so the structure wasn't designed to accommodate them like the later model was, the only part I would chance removing would be the central horizontal bracing bar as this is primarily just for anti drum.

There is another issue though with the bonded windows and why most self builders don't use them, no insulation value, so they produce condensation, most will opt for Seitz S4 or re-use windows from caravan breakers as they are insulated, insulation is a big issue in all self builds.

Join in here it's free, and the help is tremendous, I'm Pudsey Bear on there.

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That's odd as I have seen Citroen relay minibus's with bonded windows I understand they are probably built by coach builders after but they have used bonded windows in the same panels as I want to use .

Great ill check out that forum , thanks .
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 28-06-2018, 10:33
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Of course yes, I sit corrected


I wonder though if they are factory conversions and strength is added.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 28-06-2018, 13:53 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Kev_n_Liz View Post
Of course yes, I sit corrected


I wonder though if they are factory conversions and strength is added.
So the plot thickens

After I posted this thread I went to town to get an icecream ( were having not normal sun conditions here on the west coast of ireland right now ) and I met a chap with a HSE mini bus conversion . his had rubber fitted windows but I asked to have a look anyways .

Below is the pictures . It seems the converter has chopped off all the bits I was worried about . The door felt solid and he said he's never had any issues

I feel like bonded windows should actually give more rigidity than the rubber ones so hopefully it will work out .
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 28-06-2018, 14:01
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Hmm, okay, corrected again, hope you're not going to make a habit of this but there are two areas not to skimp on as they are difficult to do much about later, one is windows the other is insulation, both mega important if you are going to use it in winter, changing the layout when you find it doesn't work is a pain, but doable.

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 28-06-2018, 19:29
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The lines you drew on your original pictures were misleading, it looked as though you were anticipating removing more than what is shown in your last picture (the one with the rubber strip fitted one).
If you are only going to cut out the recessed aperture I'd say that will be just fine.

I'd suggest that a bonded on glass will more than replace any stability lost by cutting out the metal.

.

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